Enclosed/Cargo Trailer Size

jeg9792

Lil-Rokslider
Joined
Apr 20, 2017
Location
Sabinal, Texas
For those of you that hunt out West and travel with a your gear in a trailer, what size trailer do you pull. My hunting partner and I usually are able to cram everything for the two of us in the bed and backseat of the the truck, but thinking about getting an enclosed trailer mainly so we don’t have to worry about rain on all our gear, or theft when we stop at a hotel on the way out. Shorter is obviously more maneuverable on mountain roads, but in my experience short trailers don’t pull as well as longer ones. They tend to bounce more and have a tendency to whip. I’m thinking about getting a 12’ single axle, but curious how many people pull a 10’, and how does it pull.
 
Wells Cargo 10x6 single axle/ramp & side locking doors is my rig.
Once wall tent is set up; doubles as cook shack, pantry (food storage), secure/locked gear storage when out hunting away from base camp.
I have it shelved on one side, set up racks, tables on other side. Easily can stand up tall, move around.
pulled behind a Toy Tundra, no problems, tracks great.
 
I have a 6x12x6.5’ tall single axle. Pulls fine, hauls the RZR or a quad, can sleep in it, etc. windows, insulation, RV type man door but it sure hurts the mileage. Probably use 50% more gas in F150 pulling it and 30% more fuel in the F350.

In your case, I’d get a canopy, or borrow one for the trip. No insurance and plates, no (or virtually none) mileage penalty, lockable, keeps the rain and snow off the gear, etc.
 
I have a 6x12x6.5’ tall single axle. Pulls fine, hauls the RZR or a quad, can sleep in it, etc. windows, insulation, RV type man door but it sure hurts the mileage. Probably use 50% more gas in F150 pulling it and 30% more fuel in the F350.

In your case, I’d get a canopy, or borrow one for the trip. No insurance and plates, no (or virtually none) mileage penalty, lockable, keeps the rain and snow off the gear, etc.


We get it all crammed into the bed of the truck, but look like the Clampets going down the highway, our load would never fit under a canopy. I drive a F350 diesel so I can’t pass up a diesel pump, so I’m nit worried about worse mileage, lol
 
You haven't said what you will be pulling with. That plays a big role.

I'd definitely recommend a v-nose no matter what. Might make for a longer trailer but a big flat wall behind your truck sucks.
 
We have a stealth all aluminum 10' single axle trailer, pull just fine but it is loaded with 2300 pounds of elk hunting needs. We have 6 people, 2 trucks and I would not get a smaller trailer. Gas mileage hurt the pocket book we only get 10 miles to the gallon with a f150. we rented a f250 diesel 1 year and only got 11 miles per gallon. But it sounds like maybe a topper for the truck is what you need IMO.
 
Based on plenty of personal experiences....and a few unplanned adventures...I would definitely advise a tandem axle trailer for longer trips. Tandems put less stress on each tire and on the suspension. They have less tendency to whip and bounce, and they definitely provide a margin of safety if a tire goes down.

Trailer size: My thought is to buy 2' longer than you absolutely need today. If a 10'-er would do it, I would buy a 12'. In reality a 12' trailer isn't very long in comparison to almost any camper. The extra space will allow you to pack gear without cramming, plus you'll have some space to add things for the return trip if necessary.

The last enclosed cargo trailer I bought came from R & R Trailers in Michigan. They like to deal direct with customers and will build to your order. I ordered a 12' x 6' with a heavy duty rear ramp and camper-style (flush) side door. Stabilizers front and rear are cheap and valuable in use. I went with an all-white interior for visibility, and a black polybead synthetic floor covering. It's all wrapped in a screw-less aluminum exterior with 360 degree rock guards. Also, I highly value a 100% aluminum frame unit versus a steel frame covered with aluminum. Steel frame trailers will eventually rust and show corrosive discoloration.

zJA8JHzl.jpg


Edit to add one small thing: Many cargo trailers come equipped with crank-up roof vents featuring a translucent plastic dome. Be wary of these. The plastic becomes brittle with age. Hail can bust the dome and leave you with a leak. Sometimes the caulkwork around them can leak too. I ordered my trailer with side-mounted forced air vents.
 
Last edited:
I’ll be pulling it with a 2015 F350 diesel so I’m not worried about how much wind it catches or how crappy the mpg is. I get 13mpg without a load, and about 9mpg with my 10k pound skidsteer and 28’ gooseneck trailer. I won’t be driving past any diesel pumps without stopping so that’s not a concern
 
5x10 aluminum v-shaped trailer with locking side entry RV door.

Can just fit 1 ATV + gear, or sleep 4 in a pinch after unloading gear. It barely effects gas mileage, except in the hills when fully loaded and can be lifted and spun around by 1 guy in the middle of a road. No problems pulling at any speed (but just like with any trailer, get the right hitch to level the trailer and load the trailer right).

A 6x12 or 6x14 tandem would be nice with more volume and payload for more than a couple of guys, allow 2 ATVs, etc., but be heavier, have poorer gas mileage, and be somewhat less maneuverable on some mountain roads without the ability for the average guy to spin it around on his own if you get stuck in a tight place. It just depends on what your needs are.
 
5x10 aluminum v-shaped trailer with locking side entry RV door.

Can just fit 1 ATV + gear, or sleep 4 in a pinch after unloading gear. It barely effects gas mileage, except in the hills when fully loaded and can be lifted and spun around by 1 guy in the middle of a road. No problems pulling at any speed (but just like with any trailer, get the right hitch to level the trailer and load the trailer right).

A 6x12 or 6x14 tandem would be nice with more volume and payload for more than a couple of guys, allow 2 ATVs, etc., but be heavier, have poorer gas mileage, and be somewhat less maneuverable on some mountain roads without the ability for the average guy to spin it around on his own if you get stuck in a tight place. It just depends on what your needs are.

Thanks for the info. This is exactly the info I was looking for. I’ve been leaning toward the 10’ but was concerned about it not pulling good. Doesn’t sound like many people so far are having problems with that. I definitely want to be able to unhook and move the trailer by hand.
 
I agree 100% on the V-nose unit. My last 2 enclosed trailers were both V-nose builds. More aerodynamic, and it's like getting free additional storage space. I've seen some really nice racks, shelves, cabinets and vertical storage things done up in the V area. Most of us just think about putting gear on the floor of a trailer. You can also add horizontal E-track (or other systems) on the inside walls of a cargo unit. From the E-track you can attach or hang all kinds of gear in-transit or while in camp.
 
Check ATV dimensions carefully if planning to put them in an enclosed trailer. Most are about 4’x7’ and won’t go in a side door of a 5’x10’ trailer. Nor will two fit in a 6x12 but will go into a 14’ unit. Not in response to the original poster but another post above.
 
I run a 14' double axle with a V nose. I've used cargo trailers for years doing construction and I will only go with a double axle.

Take a look at the torsion axles in the Interstate trailers (not sure if they are offered by others or not). They are the best riding axles I've used.

29b1093e825549f7f6d6a830d8bccd16.jpg
 
Back
Top