Elk hunt planning - Idaho, Montana, or Colorado?

[buckchaser]

I am planning a DIY elk hunt in September 2016. It seems a long way off, but taking unpaid leave is the only way I can get leave from my job during the fall and that is the soonest it is possible.

I'm looking to backpack into a wilderness area (either unofficial or official) in pursuit of elk. It will be my first elk hunt. While I have no experience hunting elk, I chase whitetail deer through square miles of "big woods" here in Canada and have done extensive backcountry travel out west mountaineering, white water kayaking, backpacking, etc. I am very comfortable with backcountry travel of all kinds and have the fitness to tackle any challenge within reason.

I fully expect that I will not kill an elk, although I will try my hardest! Really, it is about the experience of pursuing a majestic animal in a pristine wilderness setting.

My first choice is rifle hunting the early rifle seasons in the wilderness zones of Idaho (e.g. Frank Church) or Montana (e.g. Bob Marshall). My back up plan would be bowhunting in Colorado.

Where would you go? My criteria is being able to hunt during the rut, being in a pristine wilderness setting, and having a realistic change of elk encounters. All feedback welcome and appreciated.

 

[Olydog09]

I would check Montana and Colorado for early archery. You can also do the Idaho rifle opener which is Oct. 10th. The rifle guys have done real well the last couple years with elk still in the rut at that time.

I would rethink the wilderness hunt. The Bob and Frank Church wilderness areas are VERY hostile. You can find better elk populations in areas that are not as hard to hunt. If this is a first time diy backpacking hunt I would really look into other areas for your hunt. With the time and planning you have until 2016 I would recommend looking into a decent guide for your first adventure. Or at least a drop in camp. PM Shrek on here. He just got back from his first elk trip in Mt. and he learned an awful lot about what to expect.

Good luck and have fun with it.

 

[squeekieslayer]

I hate to be a nay-sayer but I sort of agree with Oly. It is not that I don't think you are in shape enough or capable of hunting the bob... but it is typically about 3-5 miles from a trail head to even reach the bob marshal. There are almost zero places where you can park and hop out and be in the Bob. Thus, hunting by foot is very difficult. If you figure you are 4 miles just to get to where you can hunt, you are still on the trail, a trail that will have hundreds of pack stock on it going in and out. I have heard elk are few and far between in the bob and that most herds are bottled up by outfitters. Realistically, to hunt the bob, you need stock. At least to plan a HUGE expensive trip out west that would be the way to go. There are plenty of opportunities in Montana and other states to hunt some rugged and wilderness country without it being as huge of an undertaking. I know that the appeal of rifle hunting the rut is great, but there is a reason they let people do it, if it was easy everyone would do and they would have to stop.

Joe

 

[Matt Cashell]

You could hunt one of the early Idaho rifle rut seasons on your back.

A Bob hunt on your back is a tall order. Impossible? No, but as the others said, I wouldn't recommend it.

I would recommend either an archery rut hunt, or a general rifle hunt. Sure, the elk will be quieter, but the general hunts are still lots of fun with good opportunity.

 

[Rizzy]

I was in the Frank Church twice this season, one scouting trip and one Deer hunt. I didn't see any Elk or Elk sign while scouting, but I did hear a Bugle during the Sept. 15 Deer hunt. It was in a hole that I didn't care to be packing an Elk out of at the time. It's a rugged set of hills at best. The OTC tag status combined with the canine population makes it a tough hunt. The winter range in that area is very small as compared to the summer range. So in September you have to cover an enormous amount of ground to find animals, they are spread out and they have plenty of places to go when pushed. The Elk and Deer seem to thrive by taking up summer residence in areas wolves and man can not or will not effectively hunt. You might see Goats and Sheep in the fringes of these kinds of nontraditional Elk haunts and this just adds to the experience. However, I find this theme to be true in many of the Elk zones of this land of wolves and OTC tags. You defiantly do these kinds of wilderness hunts for the personal challenge not the harvest

If you can't hunt the mid October rifle hunts in other zones then I would say go for it, there is no other OTC rifle rut hunt like this in the lower 48. You will increase your chances for success by carrying tags for other species as well. Everything is open concurrently, so make a safari out of it. You will be most effective by flying in to the highest elevation airstrip and then backpacking from there. The vehicle access points on the edges turn into a downhill hunt/ uphill packout real fast. If you have 2 weeks to spend on the hunt, or a week of scouting and a week of hunting, you might do pretty good.

 

[buckchaser]

Thanks very much for the replies. This is exactly the sort of "on the ground" information I am looking for.

From what I read and hear, bowhunting in Colorado in mid September might not be as "wilderness" as the Frank Church or Bob Marshall, but would promise more elk encounters. Can I realistically expect to be able to backpack into Colorado public land during archery season and not be surrounded by other hunters?

Also, how much hunting pressure do the Bob Marshall and Frank Church actually see away from trailheads and backcountry airstrips? Will there be a a blaze orange vest parked on each mountain top?

 

[Matt Cashell]

There is a lot of empty country deep in the Bob.

 

[squeekieslayer]

Thanks very much for the replies. This is exactly the sort of "on the ground" information I am looking for.

From what I read and hear, bowhunting in Colorado in mid September might not be as "wilderness" as the Frank Church or Bob Marshall, but would promise more elk encounters. Can I realistically expect to be able to backpack into Colorado public land during archery season and not be surrounded by other hunters?

Also, how much hunting pressure do the Bob Marshall and Frank Church actually see away from trailheads and backcountry airstrips? Will there be a a blaze orange vest parked on each mountain top?

between the bob and scapegoat... you have an area about the size of Maine haha. There is sooo much country and relatively few hunters. Like i said, if you go in no further than the closest edges to the trailheads you will probably see a few people. But if you put yourself in the middle you probably wont see a soul.

I have heard that the outfitters in the Bob have been doing it for years and know where the elk are. There are relatively few elk in the Bob for its size, so finding elk may be finding people and outfitters. I have heard from many guys this year than the fires this summer have the elk all outta whack.

joe

 

[Shrek]

If you get more than a mile off the road in tall country you are not going to find a bunch of guys in rifle season most anywhere in Montana or Idaho. Many of the rifle hunters are getiing older , me included. Alone diy if you have the fitness is doable but after just a couple of days hunting by myself the fun was gone. I know I found that I was much less of a misanthrope than I thought. I would spend some time to find a partner to go with you. I think you will enjoy it much more and be more successful. Just my humble opinion earned by going on my first elk hunt diy solo. Within a week I was on here and found people to meet and hunt with and it made the trip. You can get far enough away from everyone without hitting a wilderness and I would listen to the guys telling you that there are a lot more animals to hunt outside of the wilderness areas.

 

[Craig Van Arsdale]

I hunted the Bob this year early rifle. 15 mile hike in to the area I hunted. Rough country to cover that type of ground on foot with a weeks worth of gear. I got flown out.

The best part.....

Didn't even see an elk! Got hammered by snow and sleet most of the time

You win some and lose some. I had fun none the less.

 

[2rocky]

Required watching, and reading.

Elk Hunting University. Colorado Parks and Wildlife

What is your Home Territory? If you have a wilderness, or just National Forest nearby, I'd start with Weekend Deer, bear, predator or turkey trips. Backpacking alone requires enough concentration...Now try hunting 12 hours AND backpacking...After driving 5 hours after work and backpacking in 3 miles to grab 3 hours of sleep before sunrise. It can be done, but that isn't easy to say the least.

I find that you will run into MORE wilderness traffic than some roadless areas with less notoriety. Thing is you have to look up places with motorized use plans that close roads.

 

[Rizzy]

Also, how much hunting pressure do the Bob Marshall and Frank Church actually see away from trailheads and backcountry airstrips? Will there be a a blaze orange vest parked on each mountain top?

There is always pressure adjacent to roads and airstrips, but if you pack in you will probably be alone. Not many people consistently hunt these areas because there are easier hunts. The few that I saw along the roads where in for the first time, like me.

Some of the trails are so full of deadfall, the outfitters and horse hunters can't get in anymore. Chainsaws are not allowed in wilderness areas, so no one, including the FS, can really maintain some of the trails good enough for horse passage in the burn areas. Sweet deal for a backpack hunter

 

[8Crow]

I'd also add that in both of my CO first rifle season elk hunts, I've been on National Forest but not designated wilderness and I saw precisely 1 other hunter each time--not nearly enough to make me hunt elsewhere. We had thousands and thousands of acres available to us. These were hunts on opposite ends of the state too, so two completely different experiences. I also believe from my own limited experience, the outfitters I've talked to while I was there, and the stuff I've read that Colorado first rifle season catches some rut activity a lot of years.

 

[bigeasygator]

I'd echo a lot of the comments on here. I've hunted in Idaho, New Mexico, and Colorado. Not sure what criteria you are looking for when referring to Wilderness experience, but to me everyone of those states and every one of those hunts offered a Wilderness adventure. If you are not looking for a trophy animal, I'd recommend Colorado. I hunted the Flat Tops wilderness there for a week and never saw a soul. It was via a dropcamp and the outfitter got us away from the crowds. Another great feature about Colorado is the lack of Grizzlies when compared to Montana, Idaho, and Wyoming! You don't have to take those precautions when hunting in Colorado. My last bit of advice is that if you think you are in shape...get in better shape! Once you have an 800 lb animal down you can't be in good enough shape to deal with it (it certainly helps in getting that animal down in the first place as well!). Like I said, I think you'll get the Wilderness experience regardless of which state you choose. I'd determine what other factors are important for you and go from there!

 

[thejones]

What others have said is true. I would look into Co, because you can get an over the counter elk tag, and use that tag in many units. Sure you won't find the "trophy" animal, but I think any elk taken with a bow is a trophy, and you can't eat antlers anyway. There are many wilderness areas you can hunt with the OTC tag and it is either sex. I would also look into a drop camp, it is still DIY hunting, but think of it as a shuttle service. You can walk, but your gear gets a ride. The Flat Tops is an excellent area, both views and for hunting. Good luck!

 

[Trumpkin The Dwarf]

One of the most respectable, and sometimes underappreciated trophies is a big cow elk. They are a lot easier to chew than a big bull elk! If you want a trophy elk, Montana and Idaho probably are better bets, but the Bob isn't loaded with huge bulls. As others have said, go read Shrek's adventures, and learn from them. I live in Montana and never hunt the Bob because it isn't worth it without horses and an outfitter. The place is also crawling with wolves theses days. Also, have you compared prices of non resident licenses? Montana is pricey! As a young, dumb, native Montana guy, I still don't hunt elk without a partner unless the situation is desperate. I'd encourage you to make a good friend part of the experience. Good luck!

 

[buckchaser]

I do have a hunting partner who is similar to myself in terms of outdoors experience and fitness. I've done a few weekend backpack hunts here in Ontario, Canada (in huge areas of the "big woods" - not quite as rugged and isolated as the wilderness areas out west, but a great training ground nonetheless)

I really appreciate the feedback. Now leaning toward Colorado archery elk. As tempting as it is to be toting a rifle during the rut in Idaho/Montana, it seems like for backpacking Colorado would be superior and offer a better chance of spotting/harvesting an elk. I have zero trophy expectations. Any legal elk would satisfy me on my first foray into western hunting.

I had heard that the Absaroka wilderness was more "backpacker friendly" than the Bob Marshall? Any truth to this?

The hunt will be taking from mid to late September. I have 2 - 3 weeks to devote to the hunt. I can't wait for one of the general rifle elk seasons in October because the plan is for my wife and I to be mountaineering in the Himalayas (Nepal) in October - trying to make the most of my leave of absence.

 

[Matt Cashell]

I had heard that the Absaroka wilderness was more "backpacker friendly" than the Bob Marshall? Any truth to this?

I have backpacked them both quite a bit. I would agree with that statement generally. I would say the biggest issue in either area is meat removal. It is hard to get 240#s of meat 10 miles out on your back in September.

 

[AZ Vince]

1) Go where the elk are.
If they are next to the road, hunt the road. If they are in the way back, hunt the way back.

2) Have a back-up plan.
Be prepared to call someone to help you haul meat.

3) Seriously consider using a Guide or at least having someone scout for you and do a drop camp.
If you don't know the area and can't pre-scout you're relying on luck and chance. I like to stack the odds in my favor as much as I can short of having the game animal tied to a fence before I shoot it.

4) Get in better shape.
No matter how good your condition is it could be better.

5) Plain ol' National Forest can get wilderness enough without having to go to a designated wilderness area.
Lots of folks get in over their head without going to a wilderness area. Don't become one of them.

Now with all that said I'm planning, depending on the draw results, to hunt AZ in Dec 2014 for elk. Yes, I will be backpacking solo in a National Forest but I have a few screws loose and recently broke out of a mental ward. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[phish938]

Hey BuckChaser: I am not a "regular poster" here on Rokslide, but am a local resident of MT and have done my fair share of backpacking/hunting in MT. First not to keep hounding on this but I couldn't agree more with Bitterroot bulls concern. Even with stock an early season elk hunt in the Bob's without stock is suicide in regards to getting unspoiled meet out. I am understanding that you mostly hunt deer....any "big game" moose/elk EXP? Dressing one of these animals and packing it out with a camp could be more work then you might think even just a few miles from your truck. For example lets say you set up your camp 3 miles from your truck and your kill site is another mile from your camp. Not sure how "burley" or a guy you are but you are looking at a minimum of 4 trips with meat/camp....that's 8 miles round trip so that's 32miles 16 of which are loaded with 70 plus lbs of pack. If you have a hunting buddy that cuts it in half, but still would be a challenge with hot sept days. And honestly for the early season rifle hunt there are a couple areas in the bob that you may get lucky and drop an animal only 4miles out but as another post said most the time you will probably have to get way deeper just to get into the wilderness section. PM me if you have any specific questions about MT elk hunting.