Elk arrow and broadhead selection for lower poundage?

[a3dhunter]

My wife has decided she wants to add an elk to her bowhunting resume, so I've been checking her setup and seeing what I can work up for an elk arrow.

She shoots a Bowtech equalizer, currently at 25.5" draw and 45 lbs. While she plans on getting back up to 50 lbs by season I went ahead and did some testing on arrows today to see what speeds she is getting. Shooting Easton Axis 500 spine cut to 24 5/8". She usually shoots 40-50 arrows before getting tired, so I know she can shoot heavier when needed.

The first arrow is her normal setup using 100 grain head (undecided yet on which broadhead). The second arrow has a nice heavy weight tube inserted to boost the weight.
45 lbs, 25.5"
365 grain arrow at 230 fps, KE 42.88
484 grain arrow at 204 fps, KE 44.74

Broadhead selection:
Wondering if a three blade design like the Trophy Taker Terminal T will work or if I need to go with a more traditional two blade design like the Magnus Stinger?

Would I be better going with a 125 grain head on the original arrow, bumping to 390 grains at around 225 fps?(more when she ups poundage)

Personally, I like an arrow of 440 grains or more for elk, looking for some educated opinions from those shooting lighter weight or having experience with taking elk with these weights.

 

[OR Archer]

Stay away from 3 blade heads. Look at a good cut on contact design. Magnus Stingers and ST Viper Tricks are great choices. Lengthen her arrows out to 26" to bump the weight up. They'll shoot better also. Look at an FMJ 500. It'll boost her total arrow weight and not over spine her. It'd put around 390 grains. She'd have zero issues killing an elk with that set up.

 

[ElkNut1]

If I was setting a rig up for my wife & she was shooting aprox 45# I'd set her up exactly as I did my son years ago at 12yrs to 14 yrs of age when he drew 40# to 50# with a 25"-26" draw length in that 3 year span. He took 3 bulls in that time so it worked very well with us, his shots were from 15yds to 35yds with no penetration issues with 3 bladed heads that were razor sharp! Razor sharp is an important factor here, he never hunted with heads he'd shot into a target, they were razored up before quivered. Nowadays better broadheads have come along since that time that have superior strength & structure & re-sharpening is done easier. Such heads as magnus stingers or buzzcuts in 4-blade (bleeders), Slick Trick 4-blade, Viper Trick 4-blade, SnufferSS, etc. or any quality heads as this will do the job efficiently! Personally we generally prefer 125grn heads but 100grn works also, total arrow wt. is more important here than head wt. - 390grn to 415grn would be a very balanced wt. for her present setup. Of course a tuned arrow to her bow is as important!

For arrows choose what you'd like to obtain the needed total arrow wt. Don't be hung up on being restricted to .500 spine arrows because she shoots a light poundage, her bow will also tune to .400 spine or .340 spine arrows as well. Charts are for not being under spined, it's nearly impossible to tune an under spined arrow with a specific head wt. but no problem to tune a stiffer arrow with small rest adjustment even at 45#--50# draw wts. My sons setup to achieve his 390grn to 415grn total arrow wt was with .400 spined arrows & 3 bladed thunderheads & the old 3-bladed bear razorheads in fixed blade, both had chisel tips. If I was to choose a broadhead right now for 45# it would be between the Stinger 4-blade & the Viper Trick 4-blade!

ElkNut1

 

[Jeff Martin]

Dont overlook the "Razortricks" Cut on contact Head. SlickTrick will also tell you that is their best flying head.

My wife has a similar setup and that broadhead is a killer.

 

[a3dhunter]

Appreciate the feedback so far.

Elknut, you bring up something that has been bothering me as well. The tune of the arrow.
We had her shoot through paper just checking some things yesterday and we were getting a nock left tear. After moving her rest we could not get it to go completely away, so I grabbed a 55/75 Gold tip about 27-28" long and had her shoot it, she had a good tear then. While it doesn't make sense on paper, the paper tear indicates a weak spine on the arrow.
I'm tempted to go to a 400 spine and go from there.

 

[desertcj]

I don't think you would be able to get 125grn heads to tune on 500 spine arrows, but maybe. 400 spine is way overkill for 50lbs by the book, but if it works it works and 125grn head would be a better match.

 

[ElkNut1]

a3dhunter, many things can come into play when paper tuning a bow & arrow. First don't worry about perfection, get it close. In order to achieve this her good form must be repetitive. (no grip torquing) She also needs good fletching clearance from the rest & cables, really look those things over. With arrow nocked on string but not drawn look at the fletch clearance to cable on the right, make sure there's an 1/8" clearance there or more, if not turn nock to re-postion fletch. Now have her draw the bow without her knowing what you're looking for & hold it long enough for you to look over her shoulder to see what the fletch clearance looks like at full draw? Is it still that 1/8" away or is it far away or too close? This will help tell if she's torquing. If she's torquing the bow it will show right there & that needs to be addressed in her grip before tuning. Also don't neglect moving the rest the opposite way than you feel it should be moved at times this is the remedy for any spined arrow. Generally stiffer spined arrows will need to be moved closer to the riser from dead center in very small increments, the .400 spine arrow will tune with either a 100grn or 125grn head.

ElkNut1

 

[leftyokie]

Skip the paper and have her walk back tune the bow. Use the paper to start a fire! Imo it is far better and more consistent.

 

[a3dhunter]

Skip the paper and have her walk back tune the bow. Use the paper to start a fire! Imo it is far better and more consistent.

I understand the sentiment, and I always do walk back tune but it won't address or identify a weak arrow spine problem.

 

[ElkNut1]

True, paper testing is not an end all to tuning, it merely gets you into the ballpark to let you know both your spine is good & center shot is good as long as one has decent form & fletchings are clear for take-off. Walk back tuning or similar is a good choice to follow up with to adjust rest where needed. A third step can be necessary if folks play with various broadheads & they want them shooting with their field tips, if so you'll find more rest adjustments in small increments needed there.

ElkNut1

 

[a3dhunter]

True, paper testing is not an end all to tuning, it merely gets you into the ballpark to let you know both your spine is good & center shot is good as long as one has decent form & fletchings are clear for take-off. Walk back tuning or similar is a good choice to follow up with to adjust rest where needed. A third step can be necessary if folks play with various broadheads & they want them shooting with their field tips, if so you'll find more rest adjustments in small increments needed there.

ElkNut1

I agree, broadhead tuning is always nice. It also helps to use the different broadheads to see the different point of impact, as well and consistency among style of broadheads.

 

[thejones]

Remember a heavy point can cause a weak spine and a left tear. also if she is pulling very hard against the back wall that can also cause a left tear. look at this if you get a bullet hole in paper then the next shot has the tear. I'm sure you have ruled out hand torque already.
Good luck.

 

[a3dhunter]

Thanks for all the replies, I'm sure we will be working on it more this weekend.

On the other hand my Prime Impact came in, set it up and bullet hole first shot.

 

[a3dhunter]

Figured I would update the thread.
After some more testing we isolated the tear to being caused by her.....
Had another short arm shooter fire it and get a perfect bullet hole.

 

[dlubins]

My wife has decided she wants to add an elk to her bowhunting resume, so I've been checking her setup and seeing what I can work up for an elk arrow.

She shoots a Bowtech equalizer, currently at 25.5" draw and 45 lbs. While she plans on getting back up to 50 lbs by season I went ahead and did some testing on arrows today to see what speeds she is getting. Shooting Easton Axis 500 spine cut to 24 5/8". She usually shoots 40-50 arrows before getting tired, so I know she can shoot heavier when needed.

The first arrow is her normal setup using 100 grain head (undecided yet on which broadhead). The second arrow has a nice heavy weight tube inserted to boost the weight.
45 lbs, 25.5"
365 grain arrow at 230 fps, KE 42.88
484 grain arrow at 204 fps, KE 44.74

Broadhead selection:
Wondering if a three blade design like the Trophy Taker Terminal T will work or if I need to go with a more traditional two blade design like the Magnus Stinger?

Would I be better going with a 125 grain head on the original arrow, bumping to 390 grains at around 225 fps?(more when she ups poundage)

Personally, I like an arrow of 440 grains or more for elk, looking for some educated opinions from those shooting lighter weight or having experience with taking elk with these weights.

At my Advanced age I have lost much muscle strength. I have been hunting elk for years with a 40 lbs bow. I worked in Achery shops for many years, bowhunted for almost 40 years. I prefer heavy arrows for penetration over light weight speed.
You need the heavy arrow weight and heavy FOC broadhead weight.
With a compound bow I shoot Easton FMJ with a 50 grn brass insert and 125 grn Shuttle-T broadheads. I have killed several elk with this combination.
I also hunt with traditional longbows and recurved. I still use 600+ grn arrows with Zewicky broadheads. I dont care for speed. Most elk I have shot over the years have been close. Penetration is more important than speed.