ejecting brass hitting turret on Tikka/SWFA combo

Joined
Jan 19, 2019
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I bought a 6x42 SWFA to replace the 3-9x40 Leupold on my Tikka 30-06. I mounted it with low rings, and brass hits the windage turret when ejecting. It hasn't caused a problem like sending the brass back into the chamber, but I don't like that it's happening.

I'm wondering about potential fixes and am unsure where to start. I'm thinking I could move the scope forward, but that is difficult for me with the already long length of pull on the Tikka. I could also go with higher rings, but I am unsure of how high, and it seems like a bummer to compromise a good cheek weld. I'm not sure if there are other options to consider as well.

Have you encountered this issue? Can you recommend where to start in addressing it? I'm mostly concerned about going through a process of buying and returning again and again while I try to find something that works.
 

ChrisAU

WKR
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I know some guys on 24HCF that were having the issue removed the turret after setting zero and replaced with a rubber cap. Obviously that doesn't work if you plan to dial for windage, but if its bothering you a lot it may be something to look at.
 

Wacko

Lil-Rokslider
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Eventually you will get one to drop back in the action as well. Yes, I’ve had / have the problem. I went with a rail / ring combo and moved mine back a bit. So higher and back for me so far. Still in initial testing for function, but it has helped a bit so far. I’ll probably need to add a stock pack / pad though for the cheek weld.

Solutions are, move it forward, OR backward, mount it higher, remove the turret cap and use a rubber cap. I’ve seen one person has milled the rim of the turret cap down smooth and all the same diameter too.

I'm sure you could rotate it 90* too, but I personally wouldn’t be able to get my head around that..:ROFLMAO:

That’s about it. Or a scope with lower profile windage.
 

mt100gr.

WKR
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Spent brass from my Tikka 7mmRM hits the turret and bounces down into the action probably 50% of the time.

I have 4 tikkas that I shoot a lot and I hand load for all of them. I've developed a habit of ejecting the brass slowly enough to catch it with my left hand reaching over the top of my scope. Slow motion usually tips the 7mm brass up and out enough to grab with my fingers. If not, it's loose in the action and I can dump it easily.

Its a bit annoying but doesn't really bother me.

I've never been a rapid fire guy. Slow and deliberate. Even hunting, a follow up shot for me has to be a settled and composed. I know that the old brass has to get out before a live round will feed. It's never cost me an opportunity or held me up in any way.
 
OP
C
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Jan 19, 2019
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Thanks everyone for the advice. What you're saying all makes sense. What are some rifles that don't eject rounds at such a vertical angle? I've considered Bergara, Howa, and Remington in this price range.
 

Myronman3

Lil-Rokslider
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Jul 14, 2019
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had that problem with a xbolt and a swfa. Figured i could either mount it higher, or put a scope with smaller turrets on that rifle. I ended up putting a leupold firedot on it.
 

tdot

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On a Sako A7 that I had, I'd occasionally hit the NF NXS windage nob. I ended up hunting with a Swaro Z3 on that rifle, didnt have the same problem. When I reinstalled the NXS, I moved it back maybe 1/4 and never had the problem again.
 
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The varying experiences are interesting. I had a SWFA 3-15 on a T3X 7mag and never had that issue. The same scope on a short action Tikka (223) did sometimes hit the knob. I’ve never had the issue on any of my Tikkas with the SWFA 3-9, SHV 4-14, or ATACR 4-16. I’d hate to replace a rifle or scope I liked due to that problem, but obviously it needs to be addressed.


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I had this happen this fall. Switched from a rail to low Talley rings right before hunting season. That helped the cheek weld, but apparently is *just* low enough to occasionally cause issues. Discovered that while going for the fast followup on a blacktail and ended up with the empty case back in the port.

All ended well, but I had to drop the mag to clear it and wasn't pleased. It will be fixed before the next season.
 
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Coral Springs, FL
This happens with my Kimber, Nightforce, and Talley low rings. A wrap of electrical tape to keep brass marks off, and tilting the rifle slightly to the right when ejecting, and prob solved...sort of.
 
OP
C
Joined
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I had this happen this fall. Switched from a rail to low Talley rings right before hunting season. That helped the cheek weld, but apparently is *just* low enough to occasionally cause issues. Discovered that while going for the fast followup on a blacktail and ended up with the empty case back in the port.

All ended well, but I had to drop the mag to clear it and wasn't pleased. It will be fixed before the next season.

What’s your plan for fixing it?
 

mt100gr.

WKR
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Probably a scope with a shorter turret! I like shooting that 6x42, but it's not exactly compact to carry.

If I don't get around to that, I'll put it back on a rail I guess.

For discussions sake - the SWFA scope on my 7mmRM is on a rail, in low seekins rings. If you're having the issue with a particular rifle I'm not certain a rail is the answer - unless you jack it up in high rings but that's a route I won't go.
 
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For discussions sake - the SWFA scope on my 7mmRM is on a rail, in low seekins rings. If you're having the issue with a particular rifle I'm not certain a rail is the answer - unless you jack it up in high rings but that's a route I won't go.

I put about 300 rds through it last summer on a rail + low rings. It was likely only 0.1" higher than the Talleys, but I never had trouble with that combination. It very well might have been hitting the turret, but it never knocked it back into the action.

It's actually a rare and hard to duplicate issue with the Talley's, but as I unfortunately discovered... it's possible at the right speed and angle. It will clip the turret every time I work the action at speed, but 98% of the time it will just knock it to the ground.
 
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For discussions sake - the SWFA scope on my 7mmRM is on a rail, in low seekins rings. If you're having the issue with a particular rifle I'm not certain a rail is the answer - unless you jack it up in high rings but that's a route I won't go.

This is interesting... I have the same set up. T3X 7mm RM with a mountain tactical 20MOA rail, Vortex rings (just like the seekins) woth my 3-15. I’ll need to measure my rings. But I never had that problem with it. Only when I put it on a 223.


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mt100gr.

WKR
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This is interesting... I have the same set up. T3X 7mm RM with a mountain tactical 20MOA rail, Vortex rings (just like the seekins) woth my 3-15. I’ll need to measure my rings. But I never had that problem with it. Only when I put it on a 223.


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Well that is interesting. Mine is a 20 MOA mtn tactical rail as well. Maybe it has to do with where on the rail it is - eye relief, distance fore or aft...?? Another thing I was wondering about is if there could be minor variations in where on the bolt face the ejector and extractor are located. A tiny change in angle would turn that brass up in a different spot....

Do you have a side view of your scope mounted on the rail?
 
Joined
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Well that is interesting. Mine is a 20 MOA mtn tactical rail as well. Maybe it has to do with where on the rail it is - eye relief, distance fore or aft...?? Another thing I was wondering about is if there could be minor variations in where on the bolt face the ejector and extractor are located. A tiny change in angle would turn that brass up in a different spot....

Do you have a side view of your scope mounted on the rail?

Here’s a quick pic:
92db06e1af377ade8c187de523b9a03e.jpg



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