- Banned
- #1
Newtosavage
WKR
I finally have my F1 mainframe modded how I want it. (aka, how Eberlestock SHOULD build them. LOL 
)
I cut and hinged the load shelf and found a clever way to support it using the existing straps and a short length of carbon arrow that fits through the Molle lazer cut holes. Now I can lay back against my pack when I need to, but still deploy the load shelf when it's needed.
Then I added two batwings.
Then I added a lid. To do this, I cut and moved a buckle from the lid to the top of the frame. I also used a couple plastic clips I had laying around to attach the Molle webbing under the lid to the two string loops that were already at the top of the frame. Finally, I cut and re-attached the buckles from the lid to the batwings so I can cinch the lid down. The whole lid is easily removed in just a few seconds if I don't want it.
So here is the pack going from full "hike in camp" mode (33 lbs. loaded, with 2L of water in the bladder inside the lid), then I drop the camp (bag, tent, pillow and pad are in the dry bag), pull the lid (2 days food, extra items and 2L water inside the lid), and put the batwings into day pack mode (15 lbs. total with everything I need for a day hunt).
This thing is night and day better than my Dragonfly for hauling in camp.
The great thing about adding the lid is I can leave all my food in the lid and string it up in a tree away from camp if I'm in bear country. I can also stuff things under the lid like my hunting jacket, sitting pad, etc. and the two straps will secure them.
Only thing I plan to add is a lightweight pouch for my hydration bladder in case I don't want to carry the whole lid in day pack mode. But most likely the lid will stay put. It's just too handy to have there for storage and to cover and cinch things down.
Hope that helps someone who is considering an F1 frame. I think this is a brilliant system and the Eberlestock waist belt and shoulder straps are still the most comfortable of any I've ever used.
)I cut and hinged the load shelf and found a clever way to support it using the existing straps and a short length of carbon arrow that fits through the Molle lazer cut holes. Now I can lay back against my pack when I need to, but still deploy the load shelf when it's needed.
Then I added two batwings.
Then I added a lid. To do this, I cut and moved a buckle from the lid to the top of the frame. I also used a couple plastic clips I had laying around to attach the Molle webbing under the lid to the two string loops that were already at the top of the frame. Finally, I cut and re-attached the buckles from the lid to the batwings so I can cinch the lid down. The whole lid is easily removed in just a few seconds if I don't want it.
So here is the pack going from full "hike in camp" mode (33 lbs. loaded, with 2L of water in the bladder inside the lid), then I drop the camp (bag, tent, pillow and pad are in the dry bag), pull the lid (2 days food, extra items and 2L water inside the lid), and put the batwings into day pack mode (15 lbs. total with everything I need for a day hunt).
This thing is night and day better than my Dragonfly for hauling in camp.
The great thing about adding the lid is I can leave all my food in the lid and string it up in a tree away from camp if I'm in bear country. I can also stuff things under the lid like my hunting jacket, sitting pad, etc. and the two straps will secure them.
Only thing I plan to add is a lightweight pouch for my hydration bladder in case I don't want to carry the whole lid in day pack mode. But most likely the lid will stay put. It's just too handy to have there for storage and to cover and cinch things down.
Hope that helps someone who is considering an F1 frame. I think this is a brilliant system and the Eberlestock waist belt and shoulder straps are still the most comfortable of any I've ever used.
