Draw Length Issue

[BowhuntingBrune3]

I have a mathews Chill x with the 28.5 draw mods on it but need the 29 in mods. Here is the problem, I cannot find those mods anywhere so I was curious if anyone has any ideas on how to lengthen the draw?

 

[92xj]

Longer d loop

 

[BowhuntingBrune3]

I am kinda of green with bow tuning and stuff but wouldn't that jack up my anchor point with my hand?

 

[Ac338]

Lengthening the d loop doesn't change your draw length. The only way without mods that I can think of would be twisting cables or untwisting string.

 

[Ac338]

Edited: sorry that urban archery was in Australia dont know why it popped up as local.

 

[92xj]

Correct, the longer dlopp will not extent the DL. They only proper way to get your exact draw length and anchor point how you want it is with mods. You can untwist and extend cables and strings and potentially screw up your tuning. Lengthening the dloop will put your anchor point back where you like it and not risk messing with the tuning of the bow. If your anchor is perfect with the 28.5 mods, just shoot it as is . If you need the longer draw mods to put your anchor back where you like it, extend the dloop or untwist your cables and strings. either way is not ideal but when you cant find your desired mods, you do what you can. I'm no pro though, just throwing out an idea.

 

[OR Archer]

Your local Mathews dealer can order those. You’ll need “E” Rock Mods.

 

[W1bowo]

Lengthening the d loop doesn't change your draw length. The only way without mods that I can think of would be twisting cables or untwisting string.

+1

 

[Burninpowder]

You can look on archerytalk and someone probably has some lying around.

 

[journeyman713]

By lengthening the Draw a half inch, I assume you mean to move your anchor point back.
The suggestion of the D loop will help that, also getting an adjustable length release is another easy way to fix your issue.

The suggestion of twisting the string/cable for this purpose should be avoided! The only reason to do twist those is to keep it in factory specs, with respect to ATA , timing and brace height, as string stretches.

 

[Gumbo]

By lengthening the Draw a half inch, I assume you mean to move your anchor point back.
The suggestion of the D loop will help that, also getting an adjustable length release is another easy way to fix your issue.

The suggestion of twisting the string/cable for this purpose should be avoided! The only reason to do twist those is to keep it in factory specs, with respect to ATA , timing and brace height, as string stretches.

Respectfully, this is not solid advice IME. It is very common practice to add or remove 1/4" of length using cables/string, but more than this does get to be too much because of changes in draw weight, etc. Since you want 1/2" the best route is to get new mods. Drawlength sets the front half of the body, d-loop/release head length set the rear half. They work together to get a good fit, it isn't an either/or type adjustment.

If you only want to move the anchor further back (front half of body is in good form) then a D loop change is the right move. But if your front half is already compressed or you have a very bent elbow, a D loop change won't do anything but pull the string off your nose, causing you to dip your head to the string.

I have bought super old mods for 20 year-old Mathews bows by going through a dealer and asking them to order them. While you can't order directly from Mathews, they will tell you if the mods are available for a dealer to order.

 

[journeyman713]

This is "sound advise"...

 

[Brendan]

I'm with Gumbo and some of the others above.

Changing your D Loop or a different release has nothing to do with draw length. It modifies anchor, that's different. Set your draw length first, then set your anchor.

Twisting and untwisting cables is common and done every time a bow gets tuned. But, you're not going to get much extra DL - is a micro adjustment (Pretty much every one of my bows ends up running 1/4" over spec the way I tune). Find the right mod, or find a bow that can be adjusted for you if you can't.

 

[journeyman713]

Maybe re-read the OPs post and then my response.

 

[ElkArcher918]

If you can't find a 29" mod fro your Chill X

I have a mathews Chill x with the 28.5 draw mods on it but need the 29 in mods. Here is the problem, I cannot find those mods anywhere so I was curious if anyone has any ideas on how to lengthen the draw?

Brune3, have you tried contacting your local Mathews dealer or searching Archertytalk.com? Increasing your "dynamic" drawlength isn't that big of a deal. You can make the adjustment by either lengthening your D-loop and/or the barrel length if you're shooting an adjustable wrist strap release. You can also make the adjustment by twisting/untwisting the cables and strings but you may get into tuning issues (let a good bow shop do this). Whichever way you go, resight and shoot your broadheads to ensure you're on the money.

 

[Brendan]

Increasing your "dynamic" drawlength isn't that big of a deal. You can make the adjustment by either lengthening your D-loop and/or the barrel length if you're shooting an adjustable wrist strap release.

Draw Length is equal to the distance from the inside of your string to the throat of your grip at full draw, then add 1.75". It's a set formula and measurement.

D loop, and release have no impact whatsoever on draw length. You set your draw length first, then you can alter D loop and release to adjust your anchor.

There's a difference.

 

[rob86jeep]

How does extending your d-loop not extend your perceived draw length? If you add 5 inches to your d-loop, how can you say that won't add to your perceived draw length? I'm really asking to understand here as it seems this is the general consensus.

I do understand it won't help/change your string anchor point though.

 

[wapitibob]

The bows draw length sets the string to your face, the loop sets your release arm position. You can modify the anchor a bit with the loop as well.
The draw length should be a static number, then tweak the loop and/or release head length to fine tune your elbow position. That elbow position will help with release execution and also locking in your back. When it's right, you'll see it in your float and feel it under your draw arm shoulder blade. It takes a lot of time and tweaking to get to that point. A bow press and lots of arrows is what it takes.

 

[rob86jeep]

The bows draw length sets the string to your face, the loop sets your release arm position. You can modify the anchor a bit with the loop as well.
The draw length should be a static number, then tweak the loop and/or release head length to fine tune your elbow position. That elbow position will help with release execution and also locking in your back. When it's right, you'll see it in your float and feel it under your draw arm shoulder blade. It takes a lot of time and tweaking to get to that point. A bow press and lots of arrows is what it takes.

Ah, so maybe i'm looking at it wrong. I've always considered draw length to be the length it takes for your arm/hand to pull back into a comfortable position. So, I should look at draw length as the length it takes to pull the string back to your anchor point (instead of using arm/hand position), then you use the d-loop and release length to fine tune where your arm is comfortable?

So what happens when you go from a long ATA bow (with less sting angle) to a short ATA bow (with a steeper string angle)? Would you potentially want to incase the draw length so your string will still contact your face where you want (for anchor point)?

 

[Brendan]

So what happens when you go from a long ATA bow (with less sting angle) to a short ATA bow (with a steeper string angle)? Would you potentially want to incase the draw length so your string will still contact your face where you want (for anchor point)?

I personally will run slightly different draw lengths for bows with different string angles so the string touches right at the tip of my nose with good form.

Late season hunting, I'll also go a little bit shorter than with my Elk or target setups to put a little more bend in my arm and give more arm clearance with bulky clothes.

Point of reference: My bows are a Triax at 28", RX1 Ultra at 35", and a TRX7 at 40" - so the difference does show up.