DIY double spotter bracket?

dtrkyman

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Oct 2, 2014
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Anyone try it? I have a few ideas but nothing for certain. I hate a spotter, I have a good one a Kowa 774, super clear but one eyed glassing just sucks!

I was thinking of an aluminum sight bar from an archery sight, drill and tap in 3 places, attach spotters and an arca plate.

6 inch bar enough?

Seems the flatline bracket is over priced for what it is.
 

BBob

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You're not going to like just bolting two spotting scopes to a rail, it'll suck. If you have no way of adjusting the scopes to collimate them and then locking them down so they don't move you won't be happy. There's a reason the "big eye" brackets are made like they are and are not exactly cheap.
 
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dtrkyman

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Why not just run the Kowa High Lander?
Heavier and no option to use a single for back packing trips.

I think one could use that rail listed above and make it work, getting them parallel shouldn't be too complicated.
 
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I'm a cheap ass so i built my own for 2 kowa 664s. It's ugly but works great for long periods of long range glassing. That kowa glass continually wows me every time i get behind them. If i need to go in light somewhere i can just pack a single spotter; much much lighter and smaller than the highlanders too. It can take a bit to re-collimate them but it's not too bad.


bracket.jpg
 
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dtrkyman

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That thing looks stout hatchet Jack. Can one maybe make a block to gauge the distance between the spotters at 2 points to collimate them quickly?
 

BBob

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As little as .002-.004” in any direction and it will be out of collimation. So yeah you could have a block to get you close but you’ll still have to mess with it to get it right every time you remove-replace one.
 

Rock-o

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Aren't double spotting scopes already bundled together in a package typically called binoculars?

Sorry, I couldn't resist.
 

Wapiti1

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That thing looks stout hatchet Jack. Can one maybe make a block to gauge the distance between the spotters at 2 points to collimate them quickly?
You have to optically collimate them. It's not hard with a sturdy tripod and target.

For the bracket, you don't have to make both sides adjustable. Make one side adjustable for side to side, and the other adjustable for up and down. Or one side adjusts for both and the other is fixed. It simplifies the bracket. I made one a long time ago for two Bushnell Spaceview scopes. Similar to Hatchet Jack's, out of aluminum angle and plate.

Biggest issue, IMO is getting the distance between the eyepieces right so it is comfortable for you.

Two Kowa 664's with the 30X WA eyepiece would be awesome.

Jeremy
 
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dtrkyman

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I thought I would measure the eye piece distance of my bino's and use that, the Kowa's having the ability to pivot could help with that also.

I have a 774, so doubling them is what I am thinking and use at 25x mostly. It is a pipe dream right now but maybe something for next season.

I was looking at the BTX but it seems limited compared to this set up.
 
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dont overthink it. The front saddles are slotted so i could adjust collimation but it's basically set and forget once i got that figured out. Then you rotate the scopes to adjust for IPD specific to the viewer. If i pull one spotter off it usually only takes a few minutes to get them re-collimated once i put it back on; that is due mostly to the saddles have an ever so slight amount of play in the them since I didn't cnc cut anything. I'm going on 3 years with this setup and it is amazing and works surprisingly well and actually stays collimated a large percentage of the time. If i feel like its slightly out i carry an allen wrench in my bino harness and usually a quick adjustment and i'm back in business.

7.5 lbs total and i think i'm into the whole setup for $1500 since I bought the scopes used. I have glassed side by side several times with $5,000 14lb Kowa Highlanders and these hang right in there no problem. That 30x wide angle eyepiece is amazing. This setup with the 774s would be freakin sweet.
 
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dtrkyman

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Aren't double spotting scopes already bundled together in a package typically called binoculars?

Sorry, I couldn't resist.
Yep, but not in a 25-60x77. I was eyeing the BTX but the double Kowa would be more versatile and I already have one of the Kowa.

So collimating on a target just basically aligning them to hit the same spot?

I need to call my friend who is an engineer and pretty much a genius, he would probably make me one for fun. The man can figure anything out!
 

SikaSeeker

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Feb 16, 2023
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As little as .002-.004” in any direction and it will be out of collimation. So yeah you could have a block to get you close but you’ll still have to mess with it to get it right every time you remove-replace one.

I don’t doubt this but where do you get this specific measurement?

Inspired to make my own, have the two scopes ready to go. Messing around over weekend but don’t have any materials or tools really suited to do a proper job.

Writing up a proposal for a machinist buddy so I have all details ready to go and I’m not wasting his time.
 

SikaSeeker

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Finally got off my ass and cobbled together Version 1 , I had cut out little rings for front aligning but the lip prevented it mounting on my tripod head so left it out.

Messed up holes to hold the tripod foot of each scope as I was hurrying. I’ll blame the pillar drill table….

To my surprise I was still able to form an image though it definitely doesn’t feel 100% right. I’d say 75% of the way there.

Don’t have access to material or tools needed yet, I may get machinist friend to make something more robust but overall a good proof of concept.

Word of warning to anyone, be careful tightening fasteners as it’s possible to gall threads on your scope.

The view is really fantastic, relaxed / bright and detailed.

I can see the value in going the Adams Adapter route mostly due to the tight tolerances required and absolute need for it to tightened securely in every axis.
 

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Looks awesome, one other quick tip, I found them to work even better if I spun off the eyecups.
 

SikaSeeker

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Yeah that would help with nose clearance for those who need it. The flex in this material(few mm of aluminium) is enough to throw them off.
 
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