DIY Cylinder Stove Advice?

hjcruger

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Hi, all. Eventually, I plan on making my own cylinder stove based on what is said at this link: My DIY Cylinder stove - Backpacking Light. I was wondering if anyone else has undertaken a project like this? Any tips for putting holes for a damper in the stovepipe? Any clever ways to put in a spark arrestor above the damper? Any and all tips are appreciated.
 

reaper

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Jusy finished a DIY stove for my sister,i made a collar kifaru style with damper pretty easy.Only the front plate is not from me.
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hjcruger

hjcruger

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That looks great, Reaper. Does the stovepipe slide over the top of the damper piece and rest on the rivets that seem to hold the collars up as well? I'm not super familiar with different stove designs, but I like what you've done. I might try to make the cuts for the damper and spark arrestor right into the pipe. The less pieces for me to lose, the better. Thanks for the pics.
 

reaper

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Yes the top rivets are for the pipe and botom rivets for the stove...the important thing to help the system is to make sure the stove jack cut for the pipe is tight and keep the pipe in place,it help to not create a pression on the collar and all the stove system,its the problem with the cylinder stoves.

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hjcruger

hjcruger

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I see what you're saying about the pressure on the collar at the bottom. Perhaps a set of 4 rivets facing out at the bottom of the pipe would still allow me to keep the stovepipe in one piece while keeping pressure off the bottom collar. Thanks to everyone for the info thus far!
 

Beendare

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Easy to make...I made one years ago. FYI, that hardware adds up in weight. The hinges and latch can all be fabricated from the SS shim. No pics on this computer.

And double your spark arrestors....have one both top and bottom....those tents burn easy
 

reaper

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I see what you're saying about the pressure on the collar at the bottom. Perhaps a set of 4 rivets facing out at the bottom of the pipe would still allow me to keep the stovepipe in one piece while keeping pressure off the bottom collar. Thanks to everyone for the info thus far!
You mean rivets on the pipe?Youll have hard time to roll it for storage?

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hjcruger

hjcruger

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You mean rivets on the pipe?Youll have hard time to roll it for storage?

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The rivets would only affect the last inch or so of the pipe since only one row of rivets will be needed to hold the pipe up. When rolled, the pipe will have a row of rivets sticking out at the end of the shimstock, but I don't think that should create any problems. Let me know what you think.
 
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hjcruger

hjcruger

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Easy to make...I made one years ago. FYI, that hardware adds up in weight. The hinges and latch can all be fabricated from the SS shim. No pics on this computer.

And double your spark arrestors....have one both top and bottom....those tents burn easy

I never thought of manufacturing the hardware myself. I'm not much of a craftsman when it comes to metals, but it may be worth a shot. Thanks for the idea. And two spark arrestors isn't such a bad idea either. Cheap insurance for sure.
 

Beendare

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I never thought of manufacturing the hardware myself. I'm not much of a craftsman when it comes to metals, but it may be worth a shot. Thanks for the idea. And two spark arrestors isn't such a bad idea either. Cheap insurance for sure.
Yeah a little shim stock latch and hinge keep the weight down on those.

I used the SS wire rings on the pipe and the barrel of the stove. Once the main body barrel is formed around the flange on those Ss or Ti plates [I used the Ti], its pretty strong. The pipe will need an interior ring on top and bottom to hold shape against the pressure of the outer SS wire.
 

NHBacon

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I can't find the SS stock on Tigoat. What gauge SS stock do we use? Grainger has some high temp SS foil. Will this work.
 
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