Cracked rifle stock. Repair or replace

[Macintosh]

@BigC usually a crack happens for a reason. Being minimally invasive is good, you just have to evaluate WHY it cracked and address that. Different actions create different stresses on wood, and a crack in one place may have different stresses on it than in a different place. A crack that formed from recoil setting the action back into the wood needs different treatment than something that happened because the wood expanded in wet/humid conditions around the metal forcing a crack to open. In addition to the crack repair, the real solution could likely involve bedding or sealing the wood not to address the crack itself, but to address the root cause of the crack so it doesnt get worse or happen again.
I and (I assume) others posted more major repairs, not to say thats the only way to deal with a crack, but to show that even a **major** crack is fairly easily repairable in a way that can handle use and recoil. Smaller cracks usually are not such a big deal, just smart to make sure it wont happen again while youre at it.

 

[6mm Remington]

I think I would put a nice stock on it such as a Boyds or Stocky's wood laminate stock that is checkered. Very attractive and stable.

 

[Choupique]

was worried that a repair might not be strong enough

Its like welding. The repaired joint is generally far stronger than the rest of the stuff in the structure.

 

[BigC]

@BigC usually a crack happens for a reason. Being minimally invasive is good, you just have to evaluate WHY it cracked and address that. Different actions create different stresses on wood, and a crack in one place may have different stresses on it than in a different place. A crack that formed from recoil setting the action back into the wood needs different treatment than something that happened because the wood expanded in wet/humid conditions around the metal forcing a crack to open. In addition to the crack repair, the real solution could likely involve bedding or sealing the wood not to address the crack itself, but to address the root cause of the crack so it doesnt get worse or happen again.
I and (I assume) others posted more major repairs, not to say thats the only way to deal with a crack, but to show that even a **major** crack is fairly easily repairable in a way that can handle use and recoil. Smaller cracks usually are not such a big deal, just smart to make sure it wont happen again while youre at it.

I’m a little embarrassed to post this, but the crack was caused from the rifle falling from a tree stand. I thought I had attached it to the pull up rope to lower it with my pack but apparently I didn’t clip it right. When I went to let it down all I was left with was the rope in my hand. Needless to say my heart sank. It appeared to have landed on the butt stock / scope as that is where the mud and dirt was.

 

[Macintosh]

Well, it happens. I once came out of the woods bird hunting, and there was a tiny, frail woman walking down the dirt road with a huge mutt dog off-leash that basically ran at my dog snarling the whole way. I put my unloaded custom-stocked shotgun on the roof of my truck cap so I could get my dog inside and away from Cujo, and long story short I drove off with it still there. As I rounded the corner to pull onto the pavement it slid onto the road and the wrist shattered into at least 4 different pieces. Yes, quite embarrassing.
Depending on where it broke, and depending on the wood grain there, it might or might not benefit from some reinforcement. Anyone would need to see some detailed pictures to say for sure either way.

 

[Wapiti1]

Oddly enough, that is a good break. You know why it cracked. Ones that cracked on their own with no apparent reason can be more problematic.

If it cracked through to the rear action screw hole, it may be best to pillar it at this point.

A couple of notes. Epoxy and superglue will always show a line at the crack regardless how much pressure you put on it. They soak into the grain and finish will not take there. You can tint the epoxy, though, and it can be nearly invisible. Elmers or a similar wood glue will yield the most invisible repair and be plenty strong. Never use anything from Gorilla brand. They make good glue, but their formulas are designed to expand. It opens cracks and the polyurethane won't finish well.

Jeremy

 

[robtattoo]

This old Husky was cracked right through the forearm. The crack was along the grain & about 4" long, running more than half way around the rifle.
I flexed the stock enough to spread the crack a tiny amount & used super thin superglue to flood the crack then basically let itself flex back closed.
That was about 200 9.3x57 rounds ago.

 

[Castle Rock]

I do a lot of this type of stuff
A good marine epoxy for cracks and breaks that require gap filling and a cyanoacrylic glue ( superglue) if the crack is narrow enough to draw it in by capillary action
Definitely don’t replace that stock. It will absolutely be able to be fixed.

 

[Mojave]

I had a Sauer 90 stock crack at the tang. I drilled a whole through both sides of the tang for long screw then threaded it in after putting epoxy in the whole and in the crack. Then sanded it flat, and touched up the finish.

Then I relieved the recoi lug and glass bedded the action in the stock to ensure it wouldn't move. Drilled a whole from the back of the tang toward the grip cap and put another threaded brass screw in there with epoxy. I didn't go deep enough to screw up the grip cap.

 

[BigC]

This is what I’m working with.
I have it flexed open a little to show the crack.

 

[Sinistram]

That can absolutely be repaired. No need to dispatch with the rifle or the stock. On my last African hunt, the (absolutely gorgeous) walnut stock on my Sako 416 split like a piece of firewood from the mid forend all the way back to the floorplate. Total devastation. I sent it to "The Stock Doctor" in Oregon and it is not only perfectly fixed but stronger then ever. I only went to such lengths on that gun because it's for stuff that can kill you if you don't kill it. I couldn't risk having the local gunsmith handle the job.

For a deer rifle or anything else, any reputable gunsmith in your area should be able to fix that. YOU might know where the repair is, but any casual observer won't notice, and, as others have said, the repair will be stronger than the stock itself.

 

[BigC]

If I removed the stock and used wood glue and clamped it, would that work in y’all’s opinion?

 

[TaperPin]

If I removed the stock and used wood glue and clamped it, would that work in y’all’s opinion?

You have nothing to lose. The hardest part is working glue in all the nooks and crannies - if glue only makes it half way through the joint it will be half as strong as fully glued. Just plane old Titebond 1 carpenter glue can probably be worked in, clamped, and the residue wiped off - it would typically be stronger than the wood. There is a dark wood version that would hide easier. The giant benefit of titebond 1 is it cleans up completely. After your attempt if there are any cracks on the receiver side that didn’t get fully glued, the non thickened super glue will wick into cracks - get the super runny kind like Harbor Freight sells in the 5 pack.

A slow setting epoxy can also work, but experiment with how to clean up residue off the stock finish before it cures

 

[Macintosh]

@BigC this popped up in my feed today, and I dont recall seeing the photos. Did you get anywhere on this?

IMO that crack is for sure repairable, but it probably is a couple-step repair involving removing the action, assessing the break to make sure it fits togeher cleanly and if any gap-filling is needed, gluing and clamping it, then I would for sure pin that break with some thin threaded rod from inside the stock so it has some "structural" integrity across the break beyond just the glue, and then it will need the inletting cleaned up a bit and stock bedded, and spot-refinished at a minimum. All is DIY doable for sure and it should look and function more or less as-new. Just wondering if you have done anything on it.

 

[longrangelead]

fwiw if anyone looks for this going forward.
I've fixed many cracked stocks with regular super glue.
The regular stuff is best because it runs enough capillary action will pull it into all the little nooks while thicker epoxy and wood glue will not, the super thin stuff just runs right through and makes a mess.

keep applying super glue until the Crack quits pulling it in. Flex the stock if possible to help work the Crack and pull the glue in faster.

Wear gloves! It often runs out the bottom.
Once it runs out the bottom or quits pulling it in, clamp it and clean up what you can.

A repair like this usually needs some refinish work so clean up and glue residue is what it is.

An accelerator spray can be used to set the surface so it quits running out the bottom.

 

[BigC]

Thank for the replies. I had bought some wood glue but haven’t gotten around to taking the action off and doing the repair it. Hopefully I can get to it soon.

 

[Snowwolfe]

I would use a slow setting epoxy. Before applying it try to open the crack. Apply some epoxy. Then use a blow dryer on high heat to try to force some of the epoxy deeper into the crack. Repeat as needed. Once the crack is filled wrap the stock with black electricians tape and allow the epoxy to harden.