Case Swipe

[BigDawgWill44]

I am getting what looks like faint case head swipe on all my cases even at the minimum charge weights all the way up through the max charges. Do you think the brass is just soft or maybe something on the bolt needs to be polished? I’m not seeing any other max pressure signs. Below are two different examples.

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[Cahunter805]

What kind of rifle? Factory chamber?
Is this brand new brass?

 

[BigDawgWill44]

What kind of rifle? Factory chamber?
Is this brand new brass?

It is a factory Tikka rifle. The brass has been fired twice.


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[ChrisA]

Your sized case might be a touch longer than your headspace. Is there any resistance on bolt closure? If so, then the case shoulder may need bumped back another thousandth or two.

I've had this happen on a zero headspace match rifle. The sizing die was already bottomed out and touching the shell holder so I could not size any more. I honed a few thousandths off the top of the shell holder so my case could be sized a little more; no more resistance on bolt closure and no more swipe marks.

Chris

 

[LaHunter]

Check out your bolt face. Could be something there causing the indentation on your brass. I’m not familiar with the Tikka bolt face, but that doesn’t look like the examples of ‘swipe’ that I have seen from M700 type bolts

 

[BigDawgWill44]

I took a factory round and a piece of Norma brass that is for my buddies rifle and chambered both of them then then un chambered and both had the case swipe. So must be the bolt or case length. I trimmed every PC to 2.61 which is what the manual called for.


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[rayporter]

i would wrap some fine emery cloth around a pencil eraser and spin it on the bolt face.

but it wont ever be a problem.

 

[raz175]

I had the same thing on a Tikka 25-06 bolt. The ejector had a slight burr on it. took the ejector pin out and polished it. Swipe went away.

 

[BigDawgWill44]

I had the same thing on a Tikka 25-06 bolt. The ejector had a slight burr on it. took the ejector pin out and polished it. Swipe went away.

How did you polish it?


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[Cahunter805]

How did you polish it?


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I would polish it with some fine emery cloth or a polishing wheel on a dremel. Also check the extractor lip for any burrs. Removing the ejector pin is easy but I recommend doing it into a ziplock bag for a little extra Insurance on flying parts.

 

[Don Qui Puncher]

I have the same thing on a new tikka 6.5, shot a box of factory loads all had swipes. Shot a ladder starting at minimum and got like 2300 for velocity and had swipes. I chambered a brand new piece of empty Lapua brass and got swipes. I pulled apart the bolt and the plunger had a small burr and the spring was super stiff I can’t depress the plunger with my finger I have to use a Allen wrench to push it down, I pulled it all apart and depressed the spring with pliers to weaken it but it still happens and I’m living with it. I also have a tight chamber if i chamber a piece of once fired brass I can barely close the bolt and it’s always a little sticky to lift after shooting, I have been bumping back .0025-.003 and they chamber fine now but when they expand in the chamber it’s a little sticky no matter the load or velocity.

 

[rayporter]

it is not a big deal to cut off a coil of the spring to lighten the pressure on the case. i do it all the time on varmint rifles to i can pick it out and not lose cases.
my comp rifles are trimmed so the case just dribbles out right under the rifle.

if you mess up springs are cheap.

 

[Bater]

Both my factory Tikka’s do this with dies maxed out. I just live with it but may shave a skoonch off the shell holder if I get bored some day.

 

[ToolMann]

This old thread saved my some headache. Marks on brass at max load and .5 under. No other signs. Check a dummy round with unfired brass I had loaded previously, same swipe marks. Tikka 6.5 I bought for my son.