I received my annealer a couple days ago and have it setup and have run a couple test batches to get a feel for the machine.
It’s worth noting that I have no experience with a prior annealer (flame or induction), but I’ve done a good bit of google-fu and research to learn about different machines, methods, and results.
Setup was very easy. Fill the coolant tank, press the two coolant hoses onto the coolant tank (they’re already connected to the annealer), then plug in the power. That’s it.
From the reviews and videos I’ve seen, there’s two switches. The main switch is a three way- off, anneal, or prep station. Going to anneal turns on the motors for the annealing operation and turns on the water pump. The reviews and videos I’ve seen say the water pump doesn’t turn on until the second switch is turned on. I don’t know if this is an “update” or if something don’t get wired up the correct way with mine. I have not found any problems with the way mine operates though. The second switch seems to only activate the actual annealing. I think I like this better than the second switch also turning on and off the water pump, as it allows me to deactivate the heating process but keep water cooling for a few seconds before turning the system off.
Its straightforward to pick the right size opening on the disk for the cases to drop into for the annealing process, and I adjusted the height screw as recommended, which I decided was basically pushing the base of the shoulder just above the height I could see when looking under the coil. I spend far more time examining and adjusting the process by looking into the coil from above, but it’s tough to get a sense of the height of the brass from above. I did gently reposition the coil itself to center it around the brass. This should make a difference in consistent annealing. In at least one video I watched with this annealer I noticed this person’s brass was clearly heating up faster on one side and he either didn’t notice or didn’t mention it.
I’ve run a couple hundred mixed head stamp 223 thru the annealer. As recommended, I’ve started test batches at a high number setting (fast speed) so it under anneals and doesn’t sacrifice any pieces of brass. The Speer and Federal brass hit a glow and anneal mark (which I’m trying to get to about the base of the shoulder or barely below) that I like at a setting of 57. The Lake City brass hits the same at 64 (it heats faster). I’ve also run about 75 pieces of Peterson 300WM and used the setting of 72 based off of glow, but the annealing mark isn’t as evident. I need to get some Tempilac to see if I can get confirmation.
For the coolant, I just used distilled water and a couple drops of waterbed conditioner to hopefully keep growth from developing. I filled the tank, and the first time you turn it on it will suck in some water as it primes and lower the level on the tank, but not enough that I felt it needed to be topped off.
So far I’m extremely happy with the purchase and value. It is very consistent (though I suspect it’s annealing precision isn’t as consistent as the AMP), the auto feed has worked well without any issues, and is exactly what I had hoped for.
What I plan to keep an eye on is the setting consistency. Will the unit “wander” over time and my 72 setting for the Peterson 300WM end drifting to a 68, or 78, etc?
Hope this helps.
It’s worth noting that I have no experience with a prior annealer (flame or induction), but I’ve done a good bit of google-fu and research to learn about different machines, methods, and results.
Setup was very easy. Fill the coolant tank, press the two coolant hoses onto the coolant tank (they’re already connected to the annealer), then plug in the power. That’s it.
From the reviews and videos I’ve seen, there’s two switches. The main switch is a three way- off, anneal, or prep station. Going to anneal turns on the motors for the annealing operation and turns on the water pump. The reviews and videos I’ve seen say the water pump doesn’t turn on until the second switch is turned on. I don’t know if this is an “update” or if something don’t get wired up the correct way with mine. I have not found any problems with the way mine operates though. The second switch seems to only activate the actual annealing. I think I like this better than the second switch also turning on and off the water pump, as it allows me to deactivate the heating process but keep water cooling for a few seconds before turning the system off.
Its straightforward to pick the right size opening on the disk for the cases to drop into for the annealing process, and I adjusted the height screw as recommended, which I decided was basically pushing the base of the shoulder just above the height I could see when looking under the coil. I spend far more time examining and adjusting the process by looking into the coil from above, but it’s tough to get a sense of the height of the brass from above. I did gently reposition the coil itself to center it around the brass. This should make a difference in consistent annealing. In at least one video I watched with this annealer I noticed this person’s brass was clearly heating up faster on one side and he either didn’t notice or didn’t mention it.
I’ve run a couple hundred mixed head stamp 223 thru the annealer. As recommended, I’ve started test batches at a high number setting (fast speed) so it under anneals and doesn’t sacrifice any pieces of brass. The Speer and Federal brass hit a glow and anneal mark (which I’m trying to get to about the base of the shoulder or barely below) that I like at a setting of 57. The Lake City brass hits the same at 64 (it heats faster). I’ve also run about 75 pieces of Peterson 300WM and used the setting of 72 based off of glow, but the annealing mark isn’t as evident. I need to get some Tempilac to see if I can get confirmation.
For the coolant, I just used distilled water and a couple drops of waterbed conditioner to hopefully keep growth from developing. I filled the tank, and the first time you turn it on it will suck in some water as it primes and lower the level on the tank, but not enough that I felt it needed to be topped off.
So far I’m extremely happy with the purchase and value. It is very consistent (though I suspect it’s annealing precision isn’t as consistent as the AMP), the auto feed has worked well without any issues, and is exactly what I had hoped for.
What I plan to keep an eye on is the setting consistency. Will the unit “wander” over time and my 72 setting for the Peterson 300WM end drifting to a 68, or 78, etc?
Hope this helps.
