Bedding recommendations

[Bones]

Hey guys, I have a Sako A7 that I am looking to put a wildcat composites stock on to shave some weight along with cutting down and fluting the barrel.

I have talked to wildcat composites, and they have a couple smiths in Canada that have used the tikka inlet stock and adjusted it very slightly and bedded it for a Sako A7. I talked to one of the smiths, and he said it is straightforward and pretty simple, but I don’t think it is something that I want to take on myself.

Any of you have recommendations of someone to do the stock work here in the states?

Thanks!


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[ROJO23]

any local gunsmith would be able to handle this task. I personally have done 5+ bedding jobs, and it is very straight forward. bunch of youtube videos showing the basics on bedding. I have used both devcon, and marine tex with good luck with both.

I have had some work done by both long rifles inc SD, and Hankins custom rifles in KY

 

[UtahJimmy]

Any competent Smith will be able to bed Stuart's stocks (which are badass). I just did a Remington 700 action in one of his and it turned out amazing. It's really hard to mess them up.

It was a learning curve for sure but he has great step by step instructions his FB page. I wouldn't hesitate to do it again. If you want to try yourself, shoot me a PM and I'll share my biggest ah-ha learnings!

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[N2TRKYS]

How much lighter are the WC stocks versus the McMillan with edge fill?

 

[Bones]

Probably 6oz. For some reason, I don’t live the checkering pattern on the McMillan edge. Not sure why. Maybe I should just get over that, but 5-6 oz makes up for putting a little bit heavier scope on and still stay at my target weight.

 

[UtahJimmy]

How much lighter are the WC stocks versus the McMillan with edge fill?

Mine started at 18.3oz (raw from the mold) and ended at 21.0oz with flip flop pad and paint.

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[N2TRKYS]

Probably 6oz. For some reason, I don’t live the checkering pattern on the McMillan edge. Not sure why. Maybe I should just get over that, but 5-6 oz makes up for putting a little bit heavier scope on and still stay at my target weight.

If McMillan ain’t the way you like a stock, then you don’t need any other reason. I looked at the WC, but thought it was more work and cost than I wanted to deal with. They definitely seem lighter, though. I bet it’ll turn out great.
Good luck.

 

[Ndbowhunter]

Honestly I can’t make any great statement at how differently t3 and a7 are...

But fiberglassing shit isn’t rocket appliances..

Been building surfboards and repairing boats all my adult life... whatever you do make sure to use hornady one shot as release agent and whatever mistakes you make, grind it out and redo it.

Common sense

I always mix shit up via weight. Best to let epoxy set in a dropping temperature, and don’t let the epoxy come above waterline on the action therefore locking it all in. also remove trigger pack from action.

Let us know how it goes

 

[doverpack12]

Honestly I can’t make any great statement at how differently t3 and a7 are...

But fiberglassing shit isn’t rocket appliances..

Been building surfboards and repairing boats all my adult life... whatever you do make sure to use hornady one shot as release agent and whatever mistakes you make, grind it out and redo it.

Common sense

I always mix shit up via weight. Best to let epoxy set in a dropping temperature, and don’t let the epoxy come above waterline on the action therefore locking it all in. also remove trigger pack from action.

Let us know how it goes

Which Hornady one shot are you using? Gun cleaner and dry lube or the case lube? Any idea how it performs compared to kiwi shoe polish? Been using kiwi but it’s a pain to get off

 

[Ndbowhunter]

I use the gun cleaner stuff. I use it to lay up layers of glass to make surfboard fins... and have used it a handful of times also bedding actions.

But to be fair the case lube is what you should use.

 

[Sled]

Which Hornady one shot are you using? Gun cleaner and dry lube or the case lube? Any idea how it performs compared to kiwi shoe polish? Been using kiwi but it’s a pain to get off

has anyone tried using PAM? i quit using hornady one shot for reloading after i tried pam. might fit this application as well.

 

[Bones]

any local gunsmith would be able to handle this task. I personally have done 5+ bedding jobs, and it is very straight forward. bunch of youtube videos showing the basics on bedding. I have used both devcon, and marine tex with good luck with both.

I have had some work done by both long rifles inc SD, and Hankins custom rifles in KY

Talked to Hankins, and he isn’t willing to do anything except his own custom builds anymore.

Disappointed because I thought that would be a good way to go.

Also talked to LRI, I have had them flute a couple bolts, but looking at $750 for full pillar bedding, and not sure that I am willing to cough up that just for bedding.

I have another lead, but if anyone else has a recommendation on someone to do this kind of work, I am all ears. I don’t have a local smith that I have worked with and trust.

 

[ROJO23]

$750 seems a like pricey. I also had area419 do some fluting, but I am pretty sure they are going to be close to LRI price. I have not had any other gunsmiths due work for me, so I cannot recommend anyone else. it took me a while before pulling the trigger and attempting my first bedding job. The hardest part in my opinion was getting the pillars the correct length, but after that it is really easy. my bedding is not the prettiest in the world, but I have a few guns that shoot very little groups, so that is good enough for me. I attached a link to Hankins forum, and this is a step by step on how to bed. Lots of pictures.


http://hanksmessageboard.freeforums.net/thread/303/hillbills-bedding-101

 

[Bones]

Thanks man. Area 419 is within 10 minutes of where I grew up. Was going to have them do the project, but they said they don’t do any bedding or stock work unless it is a full custom build. They recommended short action customs, so I am going to check with them as well.

Just not sure I want to tackle it myself, but will do some reading up on it.

Anyone have experience with McMillan edge. Is it pretty well a drop in fit? I have seen a couple of the edge stocks that individuals ordered unpainted. Going to also talk to McMillan about having them bondo the checkering when they are filling and sanding the other parts of the stock.

If that is possible, then I really have to “weigh” what is the cost I am willing to incur to save those 5 oz

 

[gbflyer]

Super Stocks, Truman Wilson Delta, CO. 970-874-3030. He’s as good as there is.

 

[juan trueno]

Sounds like the weight savings over the micky is mainly in the flip flop pad if they are coming out at 18oz filled and primed. THats more like a 2oz weight savings by the time you add a real recoil pad on wildcat or flip flop on the micky.

 

[deerkiller]

Talked to Hankins, and he isn’t willing to do anything except his own custom builds anymore.

Disappointed because I thought that would be a good way to go.

Also talked to LRI, I have had them flute a couple bolts, but looking at $750 for full pillar bedding, and not sure that I am willing to cough up that just for bedding.

I have another lead, but if anyone else has a recommendation on someone to do this kind of work, I am all ears. I don’t have a local smith that I have worked with and trust.

I thought the WC stocks had pillars built into the stock ?

 

[UtahJimmy]

I thought the WC stocks had pillars built into the stock ?

They're composite pillars, no need to install any metal ones.

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