Bear defense round for 10mm?

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WKR
Joined
May 1, 2013
Messages
381
Location
Glendale, Arizona
What do you fellow 10mm guys like for a bear defense load? I have a bone stock G20 and like the way the Underwood 220 gr hard casts look with higher velocity than the 200gr.

I'm also wondering if I should make a recoil spring upgrade for this much hotter round compared to the usual 180gr I shoot?
 
I have been running the double tap 220 hard casts. They functioned great out of my stock glock. I would upgrade the spring and guide rod it you plan on shooting them a bunch.
 
I have been running the double tap 220 hard casts. They functioned great out of my stock glock. I would upgrade the spring and guide rod it you plan on shooting them a bunch.

Well I don't really plan on shooting them a bunch. Definitely some in order to get comfortable and proficient with it. There seems to be several schools of thought between leaving the Glock stock and changing the guide rod for better performance.
 
Yep the double tap hard cast and I think buffalo bore has good options as well. I ran the double tap hard cast out of my g29 without any issues.
 
I have ran the BB but the price of them seems to go up and up. I just heard from a local gun manager that they just did another price hike.....
 
There seems to be several schools of thought between leaving the Glock stock and changing the guide rod for better performance.

I have put a lone wolf and upgraded my spring and rod. It seems to handle the heavy rounds better. I dont shoot the light stuff much.... But your right. It isn't as smooth as my original barrel and spring. But accuracy is better!!!
 
Glocks are notoriously undersprung. When the State Police here was issuing .357 Sigs they literally shot them apart in about 4 years. Any Glock I get that isn't a 9x19 or .45ACP gets a stiffer recoil spring and buffer. I will have to check the tech specs again, but if I recall correctly Glock has 2 weights of recoil springs for all models! Don't know about Gen 4 guns though.

pat
 
I have a Gen3 as the Gen4's have not yet been added to the "California list of approved firearms". I wonder if upping the spring strength just by a level or two would be the best way to start.....
It seems like trial and error will be the best approach....I hear so many testaments for both leaving the gun bone stock as not to mess with "perfection", and almost immediately swapping out recoil springs.
 
The reason I swap out springs is this....does it make sense that the Glock 17,20,21,31,and 35 all have the same spec'd weight recoil spring? Each of those cartridges have different recoil impulses. They all call for a 17 pound recoil spring. According to Chuck Hawks The 10mm is listed as having 11.4 ft# of free recoil energy, while the 9mm is being listed as 4.6 ft#. That is more than twice the free recoil energy for the same recoil spring. The guys who build multi caliber glocks know that the slides for the 20 and 21 are different weights, to care for the pressure and diameter differences of the rounds. Trial and error is the way to go. I am leaning to 20 pound recoil spring to start for 10 mm and may go to 24 pounds. I intend to play with it and see what happens.

pat
 
The reason I swap out springs is this....does it make sense that the Glock 17,20,21,31,and 35 all have the same spec'd weight recoil spring? Each of those cartridges have different recoil impulses. They all call for a 17 pound recoil spring. According to Chuck Hawks The 10mm is listed as having 11.4 ft# of free recoil energy, while the 9mm is being listed as 4.6 ft#. That is more than twice the free recoil energy for the same recoil spring. The guys who build multi caliber glocks know that the slides for the 20 and 21 are different weights, to care for the pressure and diameter differences of the rounds. Trial and error is the way to go. I am leaning to 20 pound recoil spring to start for 10 mm and may go to 24 pounds. I intend to play with it and see what happens.

pat

Sound reasoning Pat. Ill see if I can get my hand on a 20 lb spring.
 
Pat, I totally agree, stock is WAY too light. Back when I used to mfg'r .45Super kits for the G21 I designed a 2 stage buffered guide w/ the 24lb Wolff as the main spring for 1st stage and an internal 2nd stage spring that ran close to an additional 10lbs for last 1/2" of slide travel. I forget the exact poundages on the springs but the general idea was the 24lb main spring absorbed normal +P loads and the additional 2nd stage picked up the slack on the .45Super loads.

I also packed a G20 for a while and used stiff 200gr Hardcast loads alternated every other w/ stiff 180 serria HP's.
If I recall correctly I had a full length GR w/ the stiffest spring Wolff made at the time, which is the 24lb spring I believe.
I think your wise to have the 22lb & 24 springs on hand and simply let function test both.
Spring weight function testing is affected by the firmness of the your hold. I use a locked weaver hold so I tend to need stiff springs. A person w/ a weaker hold would require a lighter spring weight. So having both is wise. Comp'd/ported C models also figure into the spring weight. C models tend run better w/ a few pounds lighter.

Good luck guys.
Hunt'nFish

Here's a link to a pic of one of my G21's with my 2stage 45Super recoil guide rod.
 
When I was doing load work for my G20 I tried the 22 and 24 lbs spring with the tungsten guide rode. Went with the 24, because it handles my hunting load (200 XTP) and also had no problem cycling my range rounds. The heavier spring did reduce some of the snap, and my brass wasn't flung into the next county. I have shoot some DT hard cast with both springs and would still go with the heavier.

Something else to. If you plan on or already reload get a KKM, of Lone Wolf barrel. They have a more fully supported chamber on the bottom and your brass will not get deformed. Plus they are match grade barrels and shot a hell of a lot better. Only 140 dollars or so. Look into switching your connector rod out also. Reduces your trigger pull to a more consistent 3.5 lbs pull.
 
I like the Double Tap or Beartooth 200 grain bullet more than either of the Buffalo Bore or Underwood bullets. The Meplat on the front combined with impact velocity is what matters with a hardcast bullet the DT and BT are the only ones with the correct Meplat size. I prefer to handload mine but Double Tap factory loaded rounds are accurate in stock bbl's and chrono around 1175 in my G20 SF bbl. I recently found 205 gr hardcast WFN bullets from Going Ballistic Bullet Co. if you reload and they look very promising. I am still developing a load right now but no leading in my bbl after shooting a full magazine.
 
When I was doing load work for my G20 I tried the 22 and 24 lbs spring with the tungsten guide rode. Went with the 24, because it handles my hunting load (200 XTP) and also had no problem cycling my range rounds. The heavier spring did reduce some of the snap, and my brass wasn't flung into the next county. I have shoot some DT hard cast with both springs and would still go with the heavier.

Something else to. If you plan on or already reload get a KKM, of Lone Wolf barrel. They have a more fully supported chamber on the bottom and your brass will not get deformed. Plus they are match grade barrels and shot a hell of a lot better. Only 140 dollars or so. Look into switching your connector rod out also. Reduces your trigger pull to a more consistent 3.5 lbs pull.

Connectors are something I don't get to play with much...Trying to get minus connectors from Glock is a real pain, and a source in the special operations community I trust has seen quality control issues with most aftermarket minus connectors. Lone Wolf is the best of the bunch, but most of the Glocks that I work on are either department owned or privately owned guns belonging to employees. I have many "lawyers" who won't take the time to go to law school, but will lecture me to no end on liability, firearms and otherwise. Most of their info comes from errornet rumors and "my cousin's friend's sister once told me about a guy who got sued for this... No good advice, lots of conjecture coming from decision makers wearing stripes/bars/stars.

One thing I do is polish all connecting surfaces, and for the most of my guns I like the KY trigger setup (actually usually called the KSP setup) with a 3.5 pound connector and a NY1 trigger spring. It removes a lot of the sponginess from the trigger, and makes it feel more revolver-ish. It helps many of those with trigger control issues.

pat
 
Good point about the springs. I just got hooked up on a sweet deal for a Rock Island Tactial II 10mm. I will have to ask about the spring and any options. Mine is mostly for dirtbag control. Too many public land pot ops or methlabs anymore.
 
Yep, Doubletap 230 gr hardcasts for me and replaced springs and rod from Lone Wolf.

Also added a textured sandpaper type strip to my grip. Really helps on those hot days by keeping a good grip on the pistol.

Rudy
 
I think the company is HSN and they make a round for bears. I know I carry the .45 round from them.. 325 grain hard casts
 
230gr Double Taps. The gas check can't be beat on these 10mm as it greatly reduces the buildup on a factory barrel.

I run a bone stock Gen3 with no issues.

This winter I'd like to do a LWD long slide and new springs/SS guide rod.
 
Good info Dan. Have you found a good source to get the Double Taps?

230gr Double Taps. The gas check can't be beat on these 10mm as it greatly reduces the buildup on a factory barrel.

I run a bone stock Gen3 with no issues.

This winter I'd like to do a LWD long slide and new springs/SS guide rod.
 
Honestly, wheeling and dealing. Horse tradin, cheating and lying.


DT had several dealers here in Alaska but when Sportsman's undercut the little guys, they got exclusive shipments and ammo has been on a severe shortage up until very recently. I've managed to hoard several hundred rounds over 4 months. I don't plink much 10mm due to availability.

DT refuses to ship to us common folks here but they should ship within the L48

I'd place an order and see what happens.
 
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