For speed shots in a hunting situation or plinking steel within 600y, ballistic reticles works fine. For precision work/competition, recommend a higher end scope with a proven turret system. Any scope with exposed turrets is likely to turn on you without you knowing it. If it has a zero lock, then that would help, but it will be one more think to check before taking a shot. For example, we pulled my son's 308 out last weekend with a Nikon 308 exposed turret scope on it. It was a full revolution off and without a zero stop, we had to waste a few shots to figure out what happened. It appeared to be on 0, but it was the wrong 0 setting...a full turn higher. For the Vortex line, I'd have to agree with the guy above that you'd want a Razor or Viper Gen II if you intend to dial.
Also, if you are going to go with a ballistic reticle, you'll want a first focal plane scope. Without it, your ballistic calculations will vary as you change the power ring. ie...at 9x the measurements between dots on the reticle will be significantly different than at 3x. If you haven't used a ballistic reticle in the past, I highly recommend a LOT of practice in various conditions and settings. Record ALL your data and memorize it, then write it down, laminate it and tie it to your rifle---you'll forget when your adrenaline starts pumping. Typically, second focal plane scopes with ballistic reticles are tuned for use on the highest power setting. Nikon does have an app that matches the reticles at different settings and ranges for their second focal plane scopes. It works, but wastes time in a hunting scenario unless you happen to spot the game at distance and you have time to spare.
If you master whatever reticle you go with, it will be faster for getting the shot off, and the second, but it will never be as precise as dialing at longer ranges. Todd Hodnet from Accuracy first (I think he invented the Tremor reticles) has some much better explanations on Youtube as to the pros and cons of ballistic reticles.
