BDC reticle vs. Dialing turrets

[Flojoe]

Looking to upgrade the scope on my Tikka .300wsm and I'm looking for some guidance on scopes. I'm currently using a vortex Diamondback HP scope with a BDC reticle and like it but I would like to eventually get to a point to where I can reliably and confidently take game out to 500 maybe 600yds.

Is a scope with BDC reticle enough or should I have something with a dialing turret to where I can really dial in a shot. The two scopes I have in mind are the Vortex Viper HS w/ the BDC reticle or step up to the Vortex Viper HST which has the exposed dialing turrets.

Thanks for the help!

 

[huntsman22]

if staying with Vortex, it's Razor, or bust......

 

[jmike]

You can do what I did....Google Kenton Industries. They make custom turrets for most scopes. I just ordered a turret for 4x12x50 Crossfire II. Do some research on them. mine was less tan 100 bucks.

Mike

 

[Neverenoughhntn]

It is possible for a bdc type reticle to get you out to 500. Much beyond that, changes in elevation and environment will likely cause you to struggle a bit. The same is true for a custom turret... (furthermore, my .02, is NEVER EVER run a turret on a scope that wasn’t built for that purpose. The internal components are not built to withstand constant dialing, and WILL fail)

Use the search feature... there’s quite a bit of good info here on Rokslide discussing this topic

 

[kharb22]

Also, I would avoid exposed non-locking turrets. I had a scope that had them and it ended up moving on me a few times.

 

[RumLover]

For speed shots in a hunting situation or plinking steel within 600y, ballistic reticles works fine. For precision work/competition, recommend a higher end scope with a proven turret system. Any scope with exposed turrets is likely to turn on you without you knowing it. If it has a zero lock, then that would help, but it will be one more think to check before taking a shot. For example, we pulled my son's 308 out last weekend with a Nikon 308 exposed turret scope on it. It was a full revolution off and without a zero stop, we had to waste a few shots to figure out what happened. It appeared to be on 0, but it was the wrong 0 setting...a full turn higher. For the Vortex line, I'd have to agree with the guy above that you'd want a Razor or Viper Gen II if you intend to dial.

Also, if you are going to go with a ballistic reticle, you'll want a first focal plane scope. Without it, your ballistic calculations will vary as you change the power ring. ie...at 9x the measurements between dots on the reticle will be significantly different than at 3x. If you haven't used a ballistic reticle in the past, I highly recommend a LOT of practice in various conditions and settings. Record ALL your data and memorize it, then write it down, laminate it and tie it to your rifle---you'll forget when your adrenaline starts pumping. Typically, second focal plane scopes with ballistic reticles are tuned for use on the highest power setting. Nikon does have an app that matches the reticles at different settings and ranges for their second focal plane scopes. It works, but wastes time in a hunting scenario unless you happen to spot the game at distance and you have time to spare.

If you master whatever reticle you go with, it will be faster for getting the shot off, and the second, but it will never be as precise as dialing at longer ranges. Todd Hodnet from Accuracy first (I think he invented the Tremor reticles) has some much better explanations on Youtube as to the pros and cons of ballistic reticles.