Barrel-to-action anti sieze lube

Macintosh

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How specific does this need to be? Seems most places carry permatex, but there are three types—standard, copper and nickel. The nickel is what they recommend for stainless, but no one around me carries it (literally, no one including the auto parts stores). The standard is for a lower temp (“only” 1600 degrees F) but does not specify material. (My barrel/action are stainless, if it matters).

Can I safely use the standard version, or am I significantly better off with the nickel? If I can Id simply prefer to buy locally and not to order a 6dollar item and pay to ship it.
 
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HandgunHTR

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I wouldn't use the standard version. I use the nickel version. Got it off of Amazon. You can also get it at an auto parts store.

It is rated for much higher temps and pressures.
 

Dinosdeuce

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I use high temp copper for both suppressor and actions. Been using it for the past 12 years or so with no problems disassembling things. Went through on average 2 barrels a year.
 

pyrotechnic

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You are going to be just fine using the standard anti-seize.

If you do plan on getting that threaded joint to 1600 degrees please make a video for us.
 

Wapiti1

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I'm going to suggest that it isn't needed at all. Clean the threads on the barrel and action, and assemble.

Jeremy
 

pyrotechnic

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If it is stainless on stainless you are very much going to want to use antisieze, unless you would like the barrel to become a permanent part of the receiver. Possibly in a position where it doesn't even headspace correctly.
 

packer58

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If it is stainless on stainless you are very much going to want to use antisieze, unless you would like the barrel to become a permanent part of the receiver. Possibly in a position where it doesn't even headspace correctly.
I would completely agree. Iv'e never screwed a barrel into a receiver, but i will say i always use anti seize on all my SS fasteners to stop thread galling....
 

rayporter

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every year i screw on many stainless barrels to stainless actions with just grease. every
BR shooter does the same when switching barrels. but you do need lubrication, cause every year i hear of a galled barrel stuck in an action that has to be cut out.
 
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Macintosh

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every year i screw on many stainless barrels to stainless actions with just grease. every
BR shooter does the same when switching barrels. but you do need lubrication, cause every year i hear of a galled barrel stuck in an action that has to be cut out.
I already have pro gold (the gun product) which advertises as a high temp, high pressure gun grease including for stainless. Or its easy to get some red n tacky that Insee some people use. I searched and found a few places including kelbly’s that recommends high pressure grease and specifically NOT to use anti sieze. Apparently the question elicits some responses when it comes up every year on various forums. Which means no clear answer for me except to use something and based on responses I should be fine. What grease do you see a lot of people using successfully? This is on a hunting rifle that may or may not get spun off again any time soon. At this point its not about $ or convenience, just wondering what the “correct” answer(s?) is/are.
 
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ZAK13

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You will be fine using the copper never seize if that is all you can get, it's rated for up to 1800 degrees Fahrenheit, The nickel version is rated for up to 2600 degrees Fahrenheit. Both are good for all metals, however, the nickel version is made more for furnaces, refinery high pressure pipe fittings and flange fittings. So the copper version is all you'll need. As a side note, another individual posted about using grease to assemble, which is also correct, you don't necessarily need never seize.
 

rayporter

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progold is popular as is the blue grease kelbly has. i see red and tacky on a lot of loading tables too.
i got hold of several syringes of kelbly grease years ago and have used it.

i also fill a syringe with wheel bearing grease for lubing bolt lugs after cleaning.

i have tried the copper antiseize and had no trouble with it.
 
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Macintosh

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To be clear, the “standard” permatex anti seize lube says it’s a blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. They also make a “copper” and a “nickel” version, all apparently different.

This is what the std permatex anti-seize lube says: Permatex’s Anti-Seize Lubricant is a highly refined blend of aluminum, copper, and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion, and seizing due to weathering or chemicals. Anti-Seize assures easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°C to 871°C). Salt, corrosion, and moisture resistant and is ideal for marine use. Non-aerosol version meets Mil Spec #907E


Nickel Anti seize:
Permatex’s Nickle Anti-Seize Lubricant protects metal parts from seizing and galling at temperatures up to 2400°F (1316°C). Recommended to use where copper contamination must be avoided, under conditions of extreme pressure and temperature, and with stainless steel, titanium, and nickel alloys

 
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Macintosh

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Not sure if this is helpful or adds to any confusion, but…

Kelbly’s has this to say:
"Before installing a new barrel, apply EP-2 (NCGI Grade 2) or equivalent bearing grease on the barrel threads and shoulder tenon or receiver face. Do not use metallic based “anti- seize” compounds."

Bugnuts has this to say:
lube the barrel tenon threads with a light amount of lube. I use Loctite C5-A (copper based), you can use grease, anti-seize, or other appropriate high pressure lube.

carbonsix has to say:
When installing a new CarbonSix Barrel, clean the treads on the barrel, receiver and barrel nut (if there is one) and lube the threads with anti-seize. Use the proper anti-seize for stainless steel as it differs from chromoly anti-seize.
 

Reburn

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I use regular copper anti seize on my switchlugs and cans.

I think being coginzant of using a thin film of lube and not cross threading is more important of the type of lube used.
 

gbflyer

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Kelblys probably doesn’t like anti-seize due to corrosion issues if copper is used around one of their aluminum sleeved actions. I just use a small amount of gun grease. Never had a problem that way.
 
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