Barrel threading debacle

[dguns18]

Looking for some advice regarding a Tikka t3x lite 6.5cm I took to a gunsmith to have cut to 18in and threaded. It was threaded to 1/2x28 as they stated not enough barrel to cut to 5/8x24. After some issues at the shop regarding timeliness, price, etc I finally got it home and tried to thread a Griffin Armament EZ brake to mount my supressor. The brake went on about halfway and progressively got harder to thread. With about 2 revolutions before the shoulder it was far to tight to thread by hand, so for better or worse I cranked it on there. No big deal, but my pal is had a tikka t3x lite 6.5cm threaded at the same place and hadn't picked his up yet. He was concerned about the tight threads, so I tested some other muzzle devices. An A2 flash hider was also tight right around the same point as the Ez brake, a Midwest industries muzzle brake went on farther, but with about 3/4 revolution left it would need to be tighted with a wrench, and a cheap 1/2x28 to 5/8x24 adapter threaded on without any issue, I also tried a different 1/2x28 Griffin Ez brake, and I would argue it was even tighter than the first brake I tried. Should I be concerned, and/or should my pal make a fuss when he picks his up?

Thanks for any advice or ideas.

 

[Nickziegler]

I had the same kind of issues when I threaded my tikka. It cam back looking great. I tried to thread on the new adapter for my supressor and wouldn't thread. Brought it back in and they said something about the thread job being a different grading. They said they would take care of it and fix it. When I picked it up it looked terrible and felt like it would cross thread whenever I put my supressor on. I ended up sending the parrel to silence central for a few cut and thread. They did a great job. I'll find som Pic of the butcher job my local smith did and what silencer central did.

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[ghostrider272]

Put some light grease on the threads and go slow when tightening. I always take a wire brush and go over the threads first in case there is any crap on them from threading.

 

[juju]

Threading is as simple a job as it gets for a machinist. Take it back and give them the chance to make it right.

 

[z987k]

Looking for some advice regarding a Tikka t3x lite 6.5cm I took to a gunsmith to have cut to 18in and threaded. It was threaded to 1/2x28 as they stated not enough barrel to cut to 5/8x24. After some issues at the shop regarding timeliness, price, etc I finally got it home and tried to thread a Griffin Armament EZ brake to mount my supressor. The brake went on about halfway and progressively got harder to thread. With about 2 revolutions before the shoulder it was far to tight to thread by hand, so for better or worse I cranked it on there. No big deal, but my pal is had a tikka t3x lite 6.5cm threaded at the same place and hadn't picked his up yet. He was concerned about the tight threads, so I tested some other muzzle devices. An A2 flash hider was also tight right around the same point as the Ez brake, a Midwest industries muzzle brake went on farther, but with about 3/4 revolution left it would need to be tighted with a wrench, and a cheap 1/2x28 to 5/8x24 adapter threaded on without any issue, I also tried a different 1/2x28 Griffin Ez brake, and I would argue it was even tighter than the first brake I tried. Should I be concerned, and/or should my pal make a fuss when he picks his up?

Thanks for any advice or ideas.

Don't put your suppressor on that unless it's fully butted up against the shoulder.

 

[TaperPin]

If the threads are just a little tight, he will probably just run a die over them while you wait.

 

[Slickhill]

It’s not a bad idea to send the muzzle device if possible when you drop one off to be threaded. And be careful cranking down on a tight fit on SS threads, if they have a chip or something that causes the threads to gall it’s often game over and ruins the threads on both parts, CM is more forgiving in this regard.

I’ve threaded hundreds of barrels, both ends, and have had times when I needed to take another pass or two to get the brake or receiver to smoothly thread on. You do the depth calculation and due to a worn threading tool on your end or a worn tap on the maker of the muzzle device you may hit your target depth and have the fit be too tight. If you don’t have what you’re supposed to be threading too you break the setup and send it out and it may not fit up. Then if it comes back you have to set it back up and try to chase the threads without splitting them or getting the fit too loose.

Most of the time it works out but if you Can send the brake or whatever it’s just easy extra insurance.

 

[dieselchessy]

When I’ve had this issue it was due to the threads tips being to tall, not rounded off.
To fix it just takes some light file work or 400 grit sand paper, to knock the sharp tips off the threads. That may or may not be your issue. If the tips of the threads are sharp, it could well be your issue.

What I do is provide this Thunderbeast thread specification document to each smith I have thread a barrel and request that they follow the spec. Since Ive done that its been smooth sailing.

Thunder Beast Arms Corporation [TBAC] | Tech | THREAD SPECIFICATIONS

 

[Maverick1]

I had the same kind of issues when I threaded my tikka. It cam back looking great. I tried to thread on the new adapter for my supressor and wouldn't thread. Brought it back in and they said something about the thread job being a different grading. They said they would take care of it and fix it. When I picked it up it looked terrible and felt like it would cross thread whenever I put my supressor on. I ended up sending the parrel to silence central for a few cut and thread. They did a great job. I'll find som Pic of the butcher job my local smith did and what silencer central did.

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That is terrible. Unacceptable.

 

[PoniBoy]

I’d take it back to the smith and have him clean it up for you. I wouldn’t risk threading any cans, breaks, etc. on the barrel until it’s cleaned up properly.

 

[Nickziegler]

That is terrible. Unacceptable.

Your telling me. I was shocked. The original smith did however install a custom o ring for me because it was cut too deep so the supressor wouldn't seat properly lol. Silencer central did a great job on there thread job

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[ShakoMako]

Funny, my experience in Wisconsin so far lines up with first two posters, both from WI- we have many of the biggest name barrel manufacturers like Brux, Krieger, Criterion, etc, but i had a hell of a time finding a smith locally. Dropped off two Tikkas with an allegedly reputable smith, told him exactly what i wanted done and wrote it down (18”, 1/2x28) - smith calls two weeks later and says he can’t cut shorter than 20”. He also insisted that i use a QD muzzle device vs direct thread, as he claimed the threads would wear down quickly. I took my barrels elsewhere, waiting on the final result..

 

[SloppyJ]

I imagine they just need to be cleaned up a bit. You might try that. There thread pitch files that can clean them up really well. I dropped a barrel one time and bent the muzzle threads. Used that file to fix it.

 

[Terrapin]

There is no excuse for a machinist to make a set of threads that won’t screw on a muzzle device from a reputable manufacturer. Thread specs are readily available for all the thread types. If they aren’t measuring the threads over wires or with a thread micrometer at minimum, or better yet using a calibrated ring gage; you should take your business elsewhere.


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[ztc92]

Just an FYI for anyone following along, I and multiple other people I know have tikka T3x lites that are cut to 18” and threaded 5/8 x 24 without any issues. I can share a photo of my 18” 6.5 Creedmore if anyone wants to see.

 

[Wrench]

Sounds like the pitch diameter isn't right. It's not a huge deal to pick up the thread.....but it's a new setup and there's room for it to go south. I always send it out to an agreed upon PD to avoid exactly this.

If you have a lathe and cut threads....you better have a gauge, mics or at least wires and a calculator.