Arrow help

[mtbshark]

OK so I tired archery talk and like usual I got no help.
So I picked up a new bow yesterday and now I need ammo.
I purchased the on target program and it states that up till now I have always on all my bows been under spined.
How much do you all out into these arrow programs?

OK now to the meat, I am a 28.5" draw and am pulling 65+/-lbs on the rpm 360 would I run 300 or 350 spine? It looks like if I run the 300 the foc is going to be around 12.5 and to my liking that is low.
The arrow that I would like to run is the BE deep impact and the runner up is the vap.

Any help would be great, so I can get some on the way

 

[OR Archer]

If you are wanting to run more than a 12.5% FOC you will need to run a .300 with at least 150gr up front if not more. What type of FOC are you trying to achieve?

 

[mtbshark]

I would like to be around 15% or so! I just feel that at 50/60 yards plus I get better performance. This is due to running normal insert and 100g head then going to a 50g insert and 100g head.

 

[jmez]

I'm shooting a 330 spine. 28.5 inch draw, 70lbs, 50gr inserts and 125gr heads. Can promise you the programs would call it under spined. They shoot, group and tune just fine. I don't put much stock in the programs. According to them I've never shot the correct spine either. Unless you are plugging in measured numbers from your set up it is just a guess anyway.

 

[OR Archer]

I'm shooting a 330 spine. 28.5 inch draw, 70lbs, 50gr inserts and 125gr heads. Can promise you the programs would call it under spined. They shoot, group and tune just fine. I don't put much stock in the programs. According to them I've never shot the correct spine either. Unless you are plugging in measured numbers from your set up it is just a guess anyway.

I agree. The programs are a starting point but I don't think they are the gospel as to what will and will not tune.

 

[dangerousD]

I haven't used the spine programs for compound, only for traditional, but they are generally said to be a much better predictor than reading the factory spine charts, IMO. However, every setup is different and two people could shoot identical setups and get different results. For a couple years I shot 400's out of my Carbon Element and Matrix @ 67-68 lb DW, 29" DL, and 27" arrows, 100gn point, standard insert. Charts say it's good, but it's borderline and I've learned now to error on the stiff side. I regularly shoot them out to 100 yards easily with a FOC of 12.5%, but I never felt they grouped as well as they should and fixed blade broadhead tuning was tough. I now shoot 340 and do much better I feel and the fixed blades tune much easier, IMO.

I guess I don't have any answer for what you should do, just some feedback of my own experience and to error on the stiff side if you are even close to borderline. You never said what length you plan to shoot?

 

[mtbshark]

Oh crap sorry about no arrow length info.
Have been 27-27.25" carbon to carbon.

Normally I would go with the 350, but since this is speed bow I kinda feel I should up the spine. Or at the very least factor that in.

 

[OR Archer]

A 300 cut that short is going to be really stiff cut at that length and only being 65#. You would really need to run a lot of tip weight. A 340 cut at that length with 150 up front would work perfectly at 65#.

 

[amp713]

One thing i kinda mentioned on here not long ago was running the stiffest spine possible..... Most guys would agree that it is very hard to have too stiff of an arrow, Randy Ulmer says he shoots the stiffest he can in any arrow. I have started switching to this method after shooting the "right spine" then wanting to tinker and add a little more weight left me underspined a tiny bit.

 

[mtbshark]

ok so thanks for the intel folks looks pretty split on what to go with so i guess it is a $200 roll of the dice

 

[jmez]

Several places sell arrows by the shaft. Buy a few and experiment to see what flies best. I've been doing that this spring.

 

[Rolo]

OT2 tends to suggest stiffer arrows for everything. I have found that as long as my arrow is in the 'green' or really close on the weak side, I can get the arrows too shoot just fine. TAP and AA generally suggest weaker arrows than OT2, and my arrows are usually within the optimum spine on them, while weaker in OT2. That said, I also tend to stiffer is better when I can, but based on DL, DW, desired performance, and arrow configuration, I don't have a lot of options.

Do you still have arrows from your previous bow? If yes, shoot them and see how they perform. If not, you can always go back to AT and see if you can buy a 1/2 dozen of various specs used.

For the FOC, other than increasing head weight, you could foot the arrows for some added weight (adds protection too), use weight tubes (if your arrows will accept then) or there's always weed whacker line.