$3 UL saw build (2023 update)

Joined
Mar 6, 2012
Messages
864
Location
Milwaukee, WI
I used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut the slot. The holes were drilled with a drill press. I used a 3/16 bit first and then stepped them up to 1/2". The holes are spaced 1" from center to center. Center punch the holes before drilling. A vise or some kind of clamping system on the drill press will be needed for best results.

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Thanks so much for the instructions. I will be making one soon. I’ll let you know how it goes…
 
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WoodBow

WoodBow

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Jul 21, 2015
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1,744
I got within 10 yards of trying this out on a big buck only to be betrayed by the wind at the last critical moment. Luckily my buddy got a buck so i got to try the saw out. It performed perfectly. Even better than i had hoped. If you are sure to cut all of the skin and soft tissue with a knife first, you can remove the skull plate in a minute or less.
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WoodBow

WoodBow

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There are similar saw designs that have a removable blade but do not fold. They are simpler builds and i was unsure if this design was worth the effort. In real world application, the advantage came to light. I used the saw multiple times due to its ease of deployment, when i definitely would not have bothered to assemble a different design.

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WoodBow

WoodBow

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How did you cut the holes so evenly and perfect?
They aren't perfect. But i scribed a line down the length, marked out hole spacing on that line, center punched those holes, clamped in a drill vise and used drill press to drill 3/16 holes all the way through. Enlarge holes to 1/2". Rotate piece 90 degrees in vise , by eye, and repeat.

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Joined
Mar 9, 2012
Messages
1,039
Location
Yorkville, IL
I really like the design you came up with, and I wanted to see what I had on hand, so I came up with this.

I used PVC conduit to see if it would hold up and I'm super happy with the result. This took me about 45 minutes this morning to throw together. I used a heat gun to heat up the pipe and shape it after I drilled some 5/16" holes.

Total weight with everything is 2.5oz. It cut through a treated fence post that I had to test and there is no wiggle in the blade at all. The blade fits in the handle without having to cut a slit for the blade. The blade is held in place inside the handle with the same screw and wing nut.
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WoodBow

WoodBow

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Jul 21, 2015
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1,744
I really like the design you came up with, and I wanted to see what I had on hand, so I came up with this.

I used PVC conduit to see if it would hold up and I'm super happy with the result. This took me about 45 minutes this morning to throw together. I used a heat gun to heat up the pipe and shape it after I drilled some 5/16" holes.

Total weight with everything is 2.5oz. It cut through a treated fence post that I had to test and there is no wiggle in the blade at all. The blade fits in the handle without having to cut a slit for the blade. The blade is held in place inside the handle with the same screw and wing nut.
afde32424cbfa1cf056d0f12893f6679.jpg
01a94c1123c3633536ba9044794a7713.jpg
acd523fa90a5a39f01b4c24a9e13a83a.jpg
f71cf5301fb952b23052f1869050f6bc.jpg
1dc318e7991231ace624c3eefb05df69.jpg


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Hek yea. I bet you could get a really custom fit if you heat it enough and then form it in a press with the blade in place. It really is impressive what these little saw are capable of. And it doesn't take much material strength due to the primary load being along the long axis and in extension rather than compression.

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Joined
Apr 19, 2020
Messages
826
Location
Central Oregon
I have always wanted a saw to use for skull capping deer when backpacking to keep from having to carry the skull out. I looked at a few builds on here and elsewhere online. I weighed out the pros and cons of each, for my applications, and came up with this. 1/2" emt conduit scrap skeletonized. Standard reciprocating saw blade. It has a wing nut on the other side to tension it with. I bought a 5 pack of 9" bi-metal blades for $15. I figured the finer tooth would be best for bone. Can take a pruning blade too when we are taking the stove. Works like a champ on antler and 2 inch hickory limb i tested it on.
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I’m not as handy as you… But I converted my SilkyBoy 170 handle to a 3-D printed carbon fiber replacement


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kpk

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Sep 25, 2014
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700
Location
MN
I did this project today. I'll add this - If you have one of the oscillating saws with the hacksaw looking blade it will make the lengthwise very quickly.
 
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WoodBow

WoodBow

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I used this saw recently to saw off deer legs above the knee. I have always been a knuckle them out kind of guy. It is so fast and easy with the saw that i have no plans to ever knuckle another one unless i dont have the saw with me. It would also be great for easily cutting through the bone of the neck.

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Joined
Oct 29, 2019
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28
Location
Anchorage, AK
I feel that I always have trouble with grip when the hands get a little bloody. How is the grip with the aluminum? Seems like it would be a little slippery


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mxgsfmdpx

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Oct 22, 2019
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Central Arizona
I’ve found that the pruning blades work way better than those metal blades. If you have any hair or skin on bone, the metal blades fine teeth build up with gunk SUPER easily and then cut like garbage.
 

Fatcamp

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May 31, 2017
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Sodak
I used this saw recently to saw off deer legs above the knee. I have always been a knuckle them out kind of guy. It is so fast and easy with the saw that i have no plans to ever knuckle another one unless i dont have the saw with me. It would also be great for easily cutting through the bone of the neck.

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I'm making one for this very reason.
 
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WoodBow

WoodBow

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I feel that I always have trouble with grip when the hands get a little bloody. How is the grip with the aluminum? Seems like it would be a little slippery


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No issues with grip so far. Im sure the texture helps. I also no longer gut anything so I wouldn't say my hands ever get very bloody.

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