The cam seems fine if you remove the burrs so that it doesn’t Nick the next string. It’s out of the string channel and shouldn’t be an issue. The string needs to be replaced, you know that.
Limb driven is infinitely easier to set up and tune. Don’t have to worry about cord length or when it drops (you can tune it if need be). Every cable drop away I’ve set up has the extra step of putting it on the draw board to adjust the length of the cord. Limb driven just tie it, pull 1/8” on...
I tune to a good tear through paper before even attempting to shoot groups. That’s good enough to get started. From there, I set the peep height and tie it in. Once I have a good paper tune and my draw length/letoff/peep height is where I like it, I’ll move to a bareshaft tune at 20 and be done...
That can’t be true. Rotating them will change the tear, like all other arrows. There’s a point on the arrow where the spine differs. Easton can’t be different.
some arrows will tune to match not in accordance with the machines determined spine (or so I read). I’d be curious to try them back to...
Nock tuning IS spine aligning, in a way. You are getting to the same result and aligning the spines of the arrows such that they rosuce the same tear. Fletch
nock tuning IS spine aligning, in a way. You are rotating the nocks to align the spines such that all arrows produce the same tear...
Check out gillinghams Instagram. He has a good post on spine aligning bareshafts and it being a waste of time as they didn’t tune the same once fletched. I’m not one for refletching previously fletched shafts so I’ve decided that I’m not at the level where I can discern between 1 degree of spine...