Set it to 5/8", no need to build up, it's possible you may need to build out if you had a good tune with the weather rest, all depends on what you use for rug and strike plate material
Depends on what you're hitting when you crack them? If I could shoot a 31" arrow and I can't, it's too short, I would try the new ones from Victory that have the stainless steel mesh in them, they had similar before but it was extremely heavy gpi, these are still fairly heavy but manageable I...
I have a strap on kickback on my Bear 76er, basically because that's the only quiver that will work on it. I much prefer my Selway Quick Disconnect slide on quivers in 6 arrow model on bows they work on. If you go GN make sure you get the deep hood model in you use or might use at a later date...
I almost never shoot at actual stumps here in Colorado, especially not with broadheads!!! Mole hills, flower heads, weed stalks etc. Just pick something where your arrow isn't likely to bury under the debris on the forest floor. Sandy River banks are awesome!
I don't shoot groups just to shoot groups very often, pretty much when I do I'm tuning or checking my tune! I belong to a 3d club that has a full course set up year round and try to constantly change my shooting distance.
In theory, the 4" should have less problem with crosswinds than 5" regardless of number of fletches. With the exception of when I'm repairing an arrow to match existing arrows I haven't used anything longer than 3" in a few years and I mostly use 2.5" high back shields that I have a chopper for...
The farther in it is, the stiffer the arrow you will need and vice versa, so you adjust it till the arrow flys straight, I would suggest moving it out till it's even with the string to start
Doesn't the satori come with an adjustable side plate? And if you are planning on hunting, especially from the ground, the simplicity and durability of shooting off the shelf, especially a shelf that is tuneable beats the tunability of a rest in my opinion. To me, the advantage of the elevated...
I think that's a fine choice for a first bow, now get some lessons, preferably before or upon receipt of the bow for two reasons, first it will keep you from developing bad habits that will creep back into your shot sequence from now til the day you take your last shot, second they will pay for...
I can't emphasize this enough, lightness in your hand isn't your friend when you're starting out!!!! Being able to change limbs economically and move up in weight and being able to tune to different shooting styles is your bestest of friend's!!!(that means buy an economical ILF) Pair that with...