I agree, and they also don't know the speed their bow is going, so even if they've killed a pile of stuff, they can't really give you a tangible answer to what's needed for X-Sized animals. And heaven forbid you say you want to see "how fast" your bow is shooting versus the very slightly less...
Haven't killed one yet with a stick bow, I'll tell you what Tom Clum told me and a lot of other people, 53# is or at least used to be the average weight bow sold at rmsgear. I like to be well north of 500gr and North of 170fps. I don't care to get into the what weight bow to shoot thing too...
If it shoots once without breaking, it will probably shoot thousands of times without breaking! Just don't use a Fast Flight string on it! I deer hunted with a 45ish year old bow this year!
I agree, BUT, could become a real PITA to go to court and prove your case if you don't live in Alaska if an unknowledgeable trooper wrote you a ticket!
I've religiously set it on the hood for years so I'd see it before I drove off, heard enough horror stories of bows on the ground getting run over, some reason this year it kept ending up on the roof.
So, no I didn't get anything deer hunting, seen a Whopper couple of times but no shot opportunity. Did whack a snowshoe rabbit though with it hunting small game in the mountains a couple weeks ago before I went deer hunting. I did make the bow even uglier though! Almost destroyed it twice in one...
You should be working on it!!! Try pushing to the target with your bow hand, that's assuming your tune is good. I was having same problem this afternoon but reversed as I'm right handed, arrows flying beautiful but my bow arm would yip to the left when I released the string pulling the arrow...
Tentacle Wrap from Limb Savers, it works great and stays put when you get it all figured out how to install it. I used the tennis racket grip tape and it started slipping on a hot day. I've also used camp cloth tape from I think the Allen company and I used a little contact cement on the end of...
I shoot the instincts off my lighter Whistler for the 31" draw reason, really didn't care for their Outsert, shaft seemed to break pretty easy right at the back of them and I had been warned about that so I only used a half dozen to figure out tune etc then bought ethics Insert Outsert system...
Well, I'll tell you this, when you get it all dialed in, buy as many of those arrows as you can afford, cause just when you find some you really like, they will change something like the length they come or discontinue them all together etc! 2 of the toughest arrow models I ever shot, one they...
I don't, but I've read enough of these posts to say you should be fine, you might exercise your limbs a little before you shoot though if you are worried, just draw them back several times, start with short draws, gradually lengthening the draws each time. Hopefully some body will chime in...
Yeah, just keep saving and wait for the right deal! And keep the weight low if you get one of the real short ones, they are very very unforgiving of form errors, I have 2 Whistlers, one 40#@28" the other 47#@28" the lighter one is an absolute joy to shoot, the heavier one is just acceptable at...
That's a pretty long draw, so from my experience with 31" draw, i can't think of a single couple hundred dollar used or not longbow. You could easily shoot a 60" Whistler, but those tend to run in the $550 to $650 range used, Shrews should work but you never see those on the market much and I...
Short longbows that will handle a long draw usually aren't cheap! Especially if they are built well enough so that they don't unseat the fillings in your teeth when you shoot them! But it would help to know your draw length and what you think is less expensive.
Didn't think to mention this before, but once you have it dialed in, get a magic marker and nock an arrow and put a mark on it where it lines up with the back of the shelf then you have a quick reference to look at.