I think there are valid points for both sides. I do agree, if you follow the 14-day rule then you're not doing anything wrong. To me, it's the intent that is wrong. you know you're doing it to prevent someone else from going there even though you will not ever be there. what's the thought...
no don't do it? or no its not poor taste?
I'd say its poor taste, but these days all bets are off lol. there are guys who set up weeks before and hunt the whole season. rules are only suggestions these days so if you don't do it, someone else will. FTW go have fun lol
whoa, you have to ease into the slide. you can't just post such controversial stuff right off the bat.
also, I might recommend you up your arrow weight a little. that is just for the sake of the bow and nothing else. newer bows are not built to handle light arrows.
I just want to know how the heck you guys get animals to stand there while you range, take weather readings, type it all in your phone then dial and shoot? seems to me it would be easier to just learn mils. and understanding mils to inches will help with using the reticle for range estimation.
first, your rangefinder should have the option to read meters, just check the directions. second besides what has been said, if you really need to think in inches then each click of a mil scope is 3/8 inch @ 100 instead of the 1/4" of MOA.
funny, when my son started high school I started planning what to do with the empty room lol. of course, I didn't know it would be another 11 years before he actually left. but I will say, no that hes gone I do miss having someone to weed wack lol
I will say, a lot of it comes down to business model as well as detail of the job performed. I can tell you it's very unlikely any shop will replace a string and tune for the actual cost of the string. now, you may pay 150 for a string and everything is included but that's only the shop adding...
I cannot find my notes, but I found 1 empty box so can only tell you I used 45 gn A2520 with the 178 ELD
pretty sure I was in the 2700's but I have a 26" barrel. I would start 1.5 gn lower and work up. I had a chassis so was limited to mag length but probably ran 2.850 and used starline brass.
SD, the 6x45 or 6 tcu check every box you are looking for. since you reload and have a .223 it is the perfect round as you already have brass. it makes a perfect trainer and is plenty capable of getting out there at the speeds you want.
I'm old school so I'd say .243 AI or if you're looking for a neat little round then go for 6x45, it's not a screamer but they work well and minimum recoil.
some advice for you as a new reloader. decide what you want from the load then decide what you're willing to sacrifice.
what I mean by that is you can usually get anything to shoot good groups, but it may not be how you want it. since you have limited powder and bullet choices, are you willing...
you shouldn't have to spend money to be a valued customer. without customers, businesses do not exist so any person willing to walk into a shop is automatically a valued customer. just my opinion.
I agree with a lot of what's been said. the majority of bow shops seem to be tits on a bull and talk to people like they don't need you. in my opinion, if you bring me a tuned bow and ask for strings then it is my job to hand something back to you in the same condition. there's no reason to...
rangefinders come in handy when you need to know how far you'll have to run after taking that bad shot on a bear.
are they needed? no. are they useful? yes. everyone will have a different opinion because everyone is different. the argument of it being needed to take good shots is scary. if...
if it were me I would put a lighted nock, wrap and 125 gr head to get my 500 gr at 30" and then shoot the bow. theres no such thing as wasted time when tuning a bow. that arrow will work and getting it to fly perfect will only help you later if you go with a different shaft. at worse, you get...
so he wants to give you free water and electricity? sounds like a good deal to me lol. I would be that guy and tap it when he's done, after all it is on your property.
just have a talk with the clearing company, they don't need a GPS to cut a line and they will not want a lawsuit so they will...
first, do you have property at your home? if so, go to the town and get your zoning code. your house is an office, and your property is the lot. we have the same rules here but if your zoned for it then it comes down to how you word things.
second, if you want to get serious about it, go rent...