Seems like a couple bags full of loose dirt would be a good start. Just have to figure out how to keep it all from falling out. Maybe a bag inside a bag and then you spin/rotate the bag inside the outer bag to make the holes not line up any more. Maybe go to three burlap bags.
The 60Xs I just bought and put on myself seem to of settled very nicely and shoot very good. I have not used them long enough to give any more info then that.
I recently moved and don't have any shops close...which is the price you pay for having elk in your back yard ;-)
I bought a little press, changed my strings and did my d-loop, peep, etc.
The John Dudley stuff has really helped me. And Lancaster chat.
https://binged.it/2xrXuK3
Here is some testing of the Black Eagle FOCOS system that shows some testing of being shot into steel, block aluminum and the related damage to the arrow/outsert.
I believe it is a very good system for me personally. Iron Will's should work similar, I just happen to...
Great lesson. So many of us wait to shoot broadheads until right before the season. I am making sure to shoot them right away and get everything sorted out now and not in August.
Check on Ebay. I just picked up mods for a 2011 Elite for $19.99.
I would honestly go to a shop and shoot/pull back a couple bows with a slightly longer draw length. I have been shooting too short of a bow for the last 8 years and went to test drive some new bows and could immediately feel a...
Thank you for doing the review. The swiveling blade concept of cutting around bones is really interesting. The question is....is this the first mechanical you would trust on an elk, or are you still going to shoot fixed?
Interesting writing style/tone in your reply Tony.
Obviously I know not to dry fire a bow...and yes I watched the video. I was asking if there is something special in Hoyt's design that helps it survive an accidental dry fire better then other bows as this is the first time I have heard of a...
Read the posted review, thank you for putting it together.
Two questions:
What are you thoughts on the back wall? Do you just get used to it? I have been shooting Elite's recently and loved every single thing about the Helix Ultra except the back wall.
Second, I had never heard of the Hoyt...
I have heard a lot lately that bows are the easiest to tune between 250-280. Maybe he feels the same? I have not tuned enough bows in my life to know if that is true or not.
As a shooter around 250, do you notice much difference between 250 and 260? My arrows are still being built, so I do...
I just bought some BCY 23....gonna give it a try. I use a Hogg wiseguy release.
Last year I moved away from the city and don't really have a bow shop close. So I purchased a bowmaster, some BCY 3d serving, and some different sized peeps. Going to have to learn how to do the simple stuff on...
How many of you just run a d-loop and how many tie on nock sets? Obviously, if your D-loop is wearing a lot and you are replacing it, having nock sets makes not having to re-tune much easier.
Now is the time to do it. Might even get you an additional half inch of draw length if you shorten your release length and keep your same anchor point. That is probably the better approach...downside is you might need new arrows.
You western hunters/elk chasers, are you mostly shooting longer ATA bows to take advantage of the additional forgiveness?
Other then a handful of ounces, I have not come up with a reason to shoot anything shorter then 35" ATA. Am I missing something? Also, short bows make me feel like I am...