I have shot a good bit of SST in a .270 at animals from wallaby to red stags. Closest was a very large red stag well over 200kg at 40m. Went down like a sack of potatoes. At 400m+ on deer same effect. Shoot them out to 800m on animals and they always work. Superperformance ammo is accurate and...
Nightforce SHV 3.5-10x42 in reticle you like. If shooting 300 and in, a simple duplex is more than sufficient and works better in brush/dark woods than their other reticles.
Blaser barrels are so good I wouldn't mess with a third-party option unless you really have to shoot some weird calibre.
Blaser is a hunting rifle and not for PRS. For hunting it's 4" shorter than standard rifles with same barrel length. It has a great stock (pro success) that is...
I have had light strikes on my Sako TRG (similar action to Tikka) in snow/freezing. Usually ice around rear of bolt shroud impinging striking pin so it light strikes. First trigger pull breaks the ice, cycling bolt then frees it up for second shot to work.
I actually feel that keeping the TRG...
I have never felt the need to swap trigger components on any Tikka or Sako I owned, or any other rifle.
Whenever I have felt the need to do this I stop and ask myself this simple question:
"Do I know more about firearm design than Sako/Tikka (insert your rifle maker here)?"
If the answer is...
I don't know anything about aftermarket carbon stocks as they are not available in NZ, but the pro success stock with thumbhole is primo. Practically indestructible, it points quickly from all field positions and makes accurate shooting a breeze. I've shot from some bad angles with it and I can...
You'll have to buy through a dealer. Not sure of the US currently, but I've seen some dealers offering pretty sharp prices if you look around. Picking up a used barrel conversion kit is usually a safe bet also if you buy a new stock and bolt carrier. Blaser barrels are incredibly strong and...
If you find an R8 stock, R8 bolt, R8 barrel and R8 bolt carrier you can piece one together. But probably just as much money getting a complete rifle and being done with it.
I sold off a bunch of rifles once I switched so in the end the R8 probably would have saved me money if I just started...
Hold the forend. Or, use scope overhand to keep the rifle under control. The big risk is don't let the barrel rest on the pack when applying downward pressure.
Mine has a little slop developed over time from wear in the recessed magnetic mount. You can flip the bipod around one way to lock it in without panning, or the other way allows panning. Your call. You can lock the center to control left/right flop to tension it or make it loose.
These are...
JBM to get drops to actual velocity/BC. I'll range test at furthest distance to make sure it aligns. Then printed dope card in ziploc bag in bino case. Then piece of duct tape on stock opposite my cheek rest. On this I will write the further range dopes (e.g. 400-800) in 25y increments.
Also, I...
I just switched to a Numbat chest rig vs. bino harness. Reasons why:
- Most bino harnesses are too bulky. They have too much padding which is not necessary for most binos as they are armored anyway. The padding adds bulk and not much protection for any kind of significant drop either. Sure, put...
Just pick one and keep a drop table in your bino harness or taped to your rifle. Or, get some binos with built in ballistic drop calculator.
I use mils for LR rifles, but hunting rifles are MOA because I just like the scope/reticle options better on those rifles. As long as you can get a good...
Numbat chest pack. Holds my Leica 10x42, PLB, phone and ammo in smaller/lighter package than most bino harnesses. Closer to chest and wider so doesn't interfere as much when I'm on my stomach either.
I know quite a few guides here in New Zealand and hear a bunch of stories of hunters.The biggest cock ups are the guys trying to use loads of gear and blow the shot.
The latest was a guy that ranged a stag at close distance (sub 200m) and then proceeded to require multiple shots with a magnum...
The Spartan is very fast being a magnetic mount you just slip it into. I have the Pro Hunt Tac version with rapid adjusters. The older version with spin locks was much slower. I carry it in my cargo pocket if I need it fast, but more and more never bring it out and now just forget to bring it as...
You want to use the overhand with slight pressure to keep the forend stable if you are not able to hold it. It's just there to give a second point of contact vs. allowing the forend to bounce off the pack. I put my hand just in front of the turret because I guess I'm superstitious about...
I practice off a pack and that is what I use hunting. I have a lightweight spartan carbon bipod, but often using it in grass, etc. it's not high enough and too slow to setup on deer moving off quickly.
Like you, shooting off a pack is much faster. Sitting I do the same keeping the pack...
In hand mostly unless I need to climb bad terrain. Then strapped to pack. I like being able to get a rifle into action quickly if needed.
I use a sling, but it's a Mountain Shooter loop sling for stability. It works for shoulder carry, but it is primary for aiming stability. I take it off if in...
I do the same thing here on rifles with Weaver style two piece mounts as well as single piece pic rails. Use a two part slow cure epoxy called Aradite. I learned to do this from a former NZ Army armorer and gunsmith. If you need to take it off, remove the action from the stock and use a heat gun...