Yes. I estimate about 30% less recoil. Even in a 7-08, I had a hard time spotting shots at 100yds. With a suppressor, I am seeing the target in the scope through the shot. With a centerfire rifle used for hunting, fouling is not an issue unless your shooting hundreds and hundreds of rounds. As...
I shoot a T3X 7mm-08, barrel chopped/threaded at 19". With a suppressor and a limbsaver recoil pad, felt recoil is about the same as my bare muzzle 223. With a scope it's around 8lbs and there's nothing that I wouldn't shoot with it.
Start with shooting steel out of your factory mod choke and go from there. A mod choke and steel shot will work for 94.5% of duck hunting shots. Play around with a couple loads and go from there. An aftermarket choke might help but if you're throwing a good pattern with the factory, just leave...
3" #2 1.25oz Federal Blue box. Been shooting that load for all ducks for over 20yrs. It simply kills ducks. I just wish I could get it for $10/box like I could 20 years ago.
I never used it on a hunt but played around a bit at home with it.
The magnetic piece worked pretty well, even on my generic case without a raised bezel. After you snap it on, the alignment was not absolutely perfect so I'd have to adjust ~1/8". I then had to zoom in with my iphone a little...
Three antelope taken by me, my son, and my father in law. Using 139gr SST Superformance factory load. Bullet almost worked too well. Next time I do antelope or other smaller game, I may use an accubond or another tougher bullet to limit fragmentation. We had one hit a shoulder and it completely...
Wyoming antelope.
My son’s first big game animal. I really wanted to limit him to shots under 200yds but we were having trouble getting that close. We had a good set up on this buck and I asked him if he felt good with a longer shot. About 30 seconds later, he 12-ringed this buck from 275yds...
The bolt face issue alone would make me continue with 6CM in a Tikka. The 6ARC sounds great but having to rebarrel AND get bolt work done to get LESS performance seems a little wonky.
But, if you have a 223 bolt, open it up!
This might keep me from getting a new phone that is satellite-enabled. The "dead zone" scenario happens quite a bit where I go. There is "technically" cell service but not enough to send a message. It would be great if you could switch over to satellite if a message fails to send.
I had similar issues with the 150-eldx factory ammo in my T3X stainless light 7-08. I could not close the bolt on about 2/3 of the rounds. Every other ammo I have used worked fine. I did not try to diagnose the problem as there were other rounds that shot well in the rifle.
Just roll with it.
Your life will be turned upside down in ways you can't even imagine over the first six months. Just roll with it.
There will be good days and bad days, and probably more of the latter. Just roll with it.
You will deal with more poop, piss, barf, and stinky cottage cheese...
If you're not seeing animals or fresh sign, move. I don't know anything about that unit, but I'd be heading to another area. It's usually pretty obvious whether or not elk are using a given location.
This is not technically wet aging. A true wet age would be to vac seal a piece and forget about it in the back of the fridge for a week or two (or more).
You're just trying to let the meat rest/relax until you can take care of it. Cold and dry is your goal at this point. If you can't find a...
You will be fine. Avoid soaking the meat in water for too long. If you got them in the walk-in, get it out of the bags so you can get a crust. Ideally, just hang them in the walk in.
Are you intending to dry age after having it in the cooler for a couple days? Or using a few days in the cooler as a replacement for dry aging?
The reason I ask is that leaving an animal in a cooler (or hanging some place cold) is done for different reasons. Letting the meat rest for a couple...